Timing & Distributors
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Timing & Distributors
If I replace the distributor on the engine do I have to reset the timing?
Matt
Matt
- deltaracer_1
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Re: Timing & Distributors
If you replace the dist. "YES" you need to reset the base timing!
Only in a 151
1962 M151
1964 M416
1963 M37
1962 M151
1964 M416
1963 M37
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Re: Timing & Distributors
whats the standard for idle speed and advance timing on the M151A2 ?
- raymond
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Re: Timing & Distributors
AdnanRana wrote:whats the standard for idle speed and advance timing on the M151A2 ?
550-600 RPM. When setting the timing, line the pointer up exactly with the notch or line on the pulley when timing the engine. If using a timing light with advance, set it to 0, as the timing marks take into account the proper advance. If you do not have a 24 volt light, you can use a 12 volt one by hooking it up to the grounded battery. If you do not have the timing adapter, you can still use a standard induction light by using 1 of 2 methods. You can remove the number 1 spark plug wire (the one that goes to the spark plug at the front of the engine) and replace it with an old one with enough of the metal insulation removed that you can attach the pickup. This is the method I use. Or, you can cut the ends off an old solid core standard spark plug wire and insert one end in the distributor socket for the number 1 spark plug lead and the other end in the number 1 spark plug. When finished timing, put the standard military spark plug wire back on.
Raymond
"On the day when crime puts on the apparel of innocence, through a curious reversal peculiar to our age, it is innocence that is called on to justify itself." Albert Camus
- deltaracer_1
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Re: Timing & Distributors
FYI---- Setting the pointer to the mark on the crank pully is at -- 6 deg. BTC on my 151. I am planning to chang my dist. from electronic back to the point's style,... just because it was what was on it from the factory.
Only in a 151
1962 M151
1964 M416
1963 M37
1962 M151
1964 M416
1963 M37
- raymond
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Re: Timing & Distributors
If you are missing the timing pointer, you may have to time it using a vacuum gauge.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tunin ... g-148.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Raymond
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tunin ... g-148.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Raymond
"On the day when crime puts on the apparel of innocence, through a curious reversal peculiar to our age, it is innocence that is called on to justify itself." Albert Camus
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Re: Timing & Distributors
If you put a vacuum gauge on a 151 while you are timing it with a light you might be surprised at what you find. The best vacuum will give you timing that is too far advanced. If you do not have a pointer then you have to determine exact top dead center and make a pointer and then you would set you advance light at 6 degrees. Or you could get a timing tape for that diameter of wheel and install that for your adjustment with a non advance light. I can tell you how to find exact TDC but it is kind of involved and I don't have the time right this minute.
Rick
Rick
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
- muttguru
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Re: Timing & Distributors
Here's an easy-to-follow method of timing your engine and locating where the timing mark should be:-, presuming that you have checked the points/plugs/valve clearances first.
Check the ignition timing as follows (STATIC TIMING):-
1. Take out ALL the spark plugs.
2. Remove the valve cover (rocker? cover),
3. Remove the distributor cap.
4. Stand at the front of the vehicle looking into the engine compartment.,
5. Put your hands on the fan-blade and turn the fan CLOCKWISE (as you are looking at it).
6. While doing this, watch the TWO valves on number 1 cylinder (the one nearest to you).
7. They will go "down" in turn, but there will be a phase when both valves are "up" (closed).
8. As soon as they both look closed, turn the fan ANTI-CLOCKWISE 1/4-turn.
9. Get a thin welding rod (or wire) and insert it into the No 1 spark-plug hole (nearest to you)... you should be able to "feel" the top of the piston.
10. Get someone to turn the fan-blades again SLOWLY, CLOCKWISE.
11. "Feel" the welding rod rise up as the piston comes up to the top of the cylinder (both valves closed).
12. When it stops "rising", that is Top-Dead-Centre.
13. Check the pulley again....look at the edge of the pulley where the pulley-edge has passed the timing pointer (about 1/4 inch beyond the pulley). (This is 6 degrees before-tdc which is the correct engine timing) .Usually, there is a slight "notch" on the edge of the pulley, as if someone had drawn a hacksaw blade across. if it isn't there, or if someone has tack-welded a blob of metal in its place... you can still do it.You should almost certainly find some trace of the timing notch now. If still no sign, approximate 6 degrees and mark the pulley accordingly.
14. When you are happy that you have a good idea of where the notch is or should be, align the notch on the pulley with the pointer by turning the fan-blades through 180 (or 360) degrees CLOCKWISE. Make CERTAIN that the No.1 piston is at the top of the cylinder and that the pair of valves on that cylinder are still CLOSED. Turning the engine 180 or 360 degrees clockwise avoids any errors due to backlash between the timing gears.
Now just have a quick look at the distributor rotor arm. It should be pointing towards cylinder no.1, and when the distributor cap is replaced, the tip of the rotor arm should be immediately under the spark-plug no.1 lead.
If the rotor is facing ANY OTHER segment, let me know, as this will be evidence that the distributor is "out" of correct alignment or possibly the intermediate shaft needs to be turned 180 degrees.
Ken.
Check the ignition timing as follows (STATIC TIMING):-
1. Take out ALL the spark plugs.
2. Remove the valve cover (rocker? cover),
3. Remove the distributor cap.
4. Stand at the front of the vehicle looking into the engine compartment.,
5. Put your hands on the fan-blade and turn the fan CLOCKWISE (as you are looking at it).
6. While doing this, watch the TWO valves on number 1 cylinder (the one nearest to you).
7. They will go "down" in turn, but there will be a phase when both valves are "up" (closed).
8. As soon as they both look closed, turn the fan ANTI-CLOCKWISE 1/4-turn.
9. Get a thin welding rod (or wire) and insert it into the No 1 spark-plug hole (nearest to you)... you should be able to "feel" the top of the piston.
10. Get someone to turn the fan-blades again SLOWLY, CLOCKWISE.
11. "Feel" the welding rod rise up as the piston comes up to the top of the cylinder (both valves closed).
12. When it stops "rising", that is Top-Dead-Centre.
13. Check the pulley again....look at the edge of the pulley where the pulley-edge has passed the timing pointer (about 1/4 inch beyond the pulley). (This is 6 degrees before-tdc which is the correct engine timing) .Usually, there is a slight "notch" on the edge of the pulley, as if someone had drawn a hacksaw blade across. if it isn't there, or if someone has tack-welded a blob of metal in its place... you can still do it.You should almost certainly find some trace of the timing notch now. If still no sign, approximate 6 degrees and mark the pulley accordingly.
14. When you are happy that you have a good idea of where the notch is or should be, align the notch on the pulley with the pointer by turning the fan-blades through 180 (or 360) degrees CLOCKWISE. Make CERTAIN that the No.1 piston is at the top of the cylinder and that the pair of valves on that cylinder are still CLOSED. Turning the engine 180 or 360 degrees clockwise avoids any errors due to backlash between the timing gears.
Now just have a quick look at the distributor rotor arm. It should be pointing towards cylinder no.1, and when the distributor cap is replaced, the tip of the rotor arm should be immediately under the spark-plug no.1 lead.
If the rotor is facing ANY OTHER segment, let me know, as this will be evidence that the distributor is "out" of correct alignment or possibly the intermediate shaft needs to be turned 180 degrees.
Ken.
Contact address - muttguru@aol.com
Always wanted - Details and pictures of M416 Trailer data plates & M151 data plates & body-tags for my research. Thanks!
Always wanted - Details and pictures of M416 Trailer data plates & M151 data plates & body-tags for my research. Thanks!
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Re: Timing & Distributors
here is a good video for adjusting valves.
https://youtu.be/8y5r3ZSjdx0
https://youtu.be/8y5r3ZSjdx0
Robert
1966 - M151A1
1986 - M998
2007 - M1102
2009 - H3T
Hell on Wheels https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCi_blL ... z7Ukw8gbHg
1966 - M151A1
1986 - M998
2007 - M1102
2009 - H3T
Hell on Wheels https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCi_blL ... z7Ukw8gbHg
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Re: Timing & Distributors
In that video did you notice the exhaust valve rotators were on the intake valves? And one of them appeared to have a missing keeper.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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