Identifying and starting a field jeep
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- G-Private
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- Location: Austin, TX
Identifying and starting a field jeep
Howdy! I’ve just started figuring out what I’ve got and where to begin on fixing/restoring.
We were told this could be an m38/a1, but the panels are all too worn down to read any model numbers. Could do eine look at the pictures and let me know what Jeep we ha e?
Also, if y’all were starting from this point, what would be first goals? Are there any companies or groups we should be approaching to work/parts/advice (the jeep is near Austin, but I could trailer it around until it’s more mobile)? I’d like to believe I could fix this up myself, but it’s just not something I have the time to tinker with.
Thanks!
We were told this could be an m38/a1, but the panels are all too worn down to read any model numbers. Could do eine look at the pictures and let me know what Jeep we ha e?
Also, if y’all were starting from this point, what would be first goals? Are there any companies or groups we should be approaching to work/parts/advice (the jeep is near Austin, but I could trailer it around until it’s more mobile)? I’d like to believe I could fix this up myself, but it’s just not something I have the time to tinker with.
Thanks!
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- G-Colonel
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
looks like a lot work to me. check if engine turn? then pull oils on front, rear trany, transfer. if water or rust, need rebuilt. only way to resurrect jeep like this is you do all work.
- W. Winget
- LTC, U.S. Army
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
Looks like an M38A1, but the fuel filler is different (on yours) from the 1952 model I just picked up below photos (which will be sold after I install a clutch and paint)
A photo under the hood would be nice, and passenger side indentation with slave cable receptacle for jump starting 24V systems would help confirm.
There are others here that are experts on every nut and bolt on that vehicle.
V/R W Winget
A photo under the hood would be nice, and passenger side indentation with slave cable receptacle for jump starting 24V systems would help confirm.
There are others here that are experts on every nut and bolt on that vehicle.
V/R W Winget
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
First thing I noticed were the wheels...which belong on the M151 series of truck and shouldn't be used on this M38A1 or CJ5 (or whatever it actually is).
The two main questions; that of Quantity and Quality, should be your guidance when selecting a tinker toy.
Quantity? means - How much of what should be there is still there?
Quality? means - How good is what you have to work with?
Cheers,
GPW1263
The two main questions; that of Quantity and Quality, should be your guidance when selecting a tinker toy.
Quantity? means - How much of what should be there is still there?
Quality? means - How good is what you have to work with?
Cheers,
GPW1263
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- G-First Sergeant
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
Interesting that it has a CJ5 gas tank.
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- G-Private
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
Thanks for the replies! I'll post some more pictures tomorrow - engine bay, fuel filler, wheels, etc. - if it stops raining long enough.
It was running enough to scoot around the neighborhood before it got parked, so I think the engine is at lest salvageable, but the brakes have never been good as long as I've owned it.
Is there a great deal of value in keeping this as close to original as possible? If the engine has rusted out over the years, are people morally opposed to dropping in a modern i4? I've had a Triumph and a Manx in the past and had good catalogues & parts resources for those - is there a preferred supplier in this community?
It was running enough to scoot around the neighborhood before it got parked, so I think the engine is at lest salvageable, but the brakes have never been good as long as I've owned it.
Is there a great deal of value in keeping this as close to original as possible? If the engine has rusted out over the years, are people morally opposed to dropping in a modern i4? I've had a Triumph and a Manx in the past and had good catalogues & parts resources for those - is there a preferred supplier in this community?
- Bill H.
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
My first thought was CJ5 because of the filler. I'd say it was simply added???
At Ron's open house there was a VEP Script Ford GPW tub that had a rather nicely added CJ2A filler opening and the tank sump removed. At 10 feet it was confusing to say the least but on closer examination the filler opening had been added and a flat sheet of metal where the sump was.
At Ron's open house there was a VEP Script Ford GPW tub that had a rather nicely added CJ2A filler opening and the tank sump removed. At 10 feet it was confusing to say the least but on closer examination the filler opening had been added and a flat sheet of metal where the sump was.
Bill H.
"Each shall seek his own kind, in other words, a bird may love a fish but where would they build a home together?" Tevye, Fiddler on the Roof
1952 Dunbar Kapple M100
1953 Willys M38A1
1962 AMC M422A1
1965 Stevens M416B1 X 2
1967 Kaiser M715
2 Timothy 3:1-5
"Each shall seek his own kind, in other words, a bird may love a fish but where would they build a home together?" Tevye, Fiddler on the Roof
1952 Dunbar Kapple M100
1953 Willys M38A1
1962 AMC M422A1
1965 Stevens M416B1 X 2
1967 Kaiser M715
2 Timothy 3:1-5
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- G-First Lieutenant
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
Just look to see if there is a plate for the machine gun munt located just forward of the rear axle flush with the bottom of the tub. There should be 4 dimples in the tub for drilling into that plate. No dimples, no plate, no M38A1. John
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- G-Private
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
Ok, here are a couple more pictures. The first ones are of the tub. It looks like there are some brackets and a couple empty holes right in front of the axle and another set of brackets up closer to the seats. The next set are from the engine bay, which is in way worse shape than I remember. Please be gentle, but thanks for all the help so far!
Had a little trouble uploading photos. Apologies if they're all jumbled.
Had a little trouble uploading photos. Apologies if they're all jumbled.
- m-11
- USAF E-7 MSgt
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Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
If it was a CJ 5 tub, both sides of the tub would be embossed with JEEP and there would be a tailgate.
- Bill H.
- G Moderator
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- Joined: Sun May 31, 1998 8:00 pm
- Location: Yonna Valley, Oregon
Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
Yep. Lots of cobbled together stuff out there yet to be found. That's why it was my first thought but after looking it was pretty obvious it wasn't a CJ5 tub. :
Bill H.
"Each shall seek his own kind, in other words, a bird may love a fish but where would they build a home together?" Tevye, Fiddler on the Roof
1952 Dunbar Kapple M100
1953 Willys M38A1
1962 AMC M422A1
1965 Stevens M416B1 X 2
1967 Kaiser M715
2 Timothy 3:1-5
"Each shall seek his own kind, in other words, a bird may love a fish but where would they build a home together?" Tevye, Fiddler on the Roof
1952 Dunbar Kapple M100
1953 Willys M38A1
1962 AMC M422A1
1965 Stevens M416B1 X 2
1967 Kaiser M715
2 Timothy 3:1-5
- W. Winget
- LTC, U.S. Army
- Posts: 4470
- Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2002 10:37 am
- Location: USA, Virginia, Carrollton
- Contact:
Re: Identifying and starting a field jeep
From what I see, it's an M38A1 civilianized by inserting a 12V alternator and standard distributor (VS Waterproof model) gas tank? and diferent carburetor, windshield wiper system.
Also, the left front fender top would have holes for a black out drive light if it were military (shown in my photo) and the shovel mount under the hood.
Change the wheel rims to solids ("16) with military tires, add back in a few parts, paint, etc. and you have about a $2000 jeep (if it runs and stops)
Worthy for fun and sun enjoyment, harder to do a "restoration" on as she would need a lot of elbow grease and detailing parts.
V/R W. Winget
Also, the left front fender top would have holes for a black out drive light if it were military (shown in my photo) and the shovel mount under the hood.
Change the wheel rims to solids ("16) with military tires, add back in a few parts, paint, etc. and you have about a $2000 jeep (if it runs and stops)
Worthy for fun and sun enjoyment, harder to do a "restoration" on as she would need a lot of elbow grease and detailing parts.
V/R W. Winget
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts
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