Toe-in adjustment

1950 - 1952, M38, questions, discussions, regarding anything related to the M38.
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Scott in NM
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Toe-in adjustment

Post by Scott in NM » Tue Jun 14, 2022 4:08 am

Put different right tie rod on jeep and attempting to adjust toe-in. My gauge shows 5/16" toe-in, should be 3/32 to 3/16. Do I want to reduce the distance between the tie rod ends (make the tie rod shorter) or increase it, and by how much? I'm thinking shorter by 3/16". Really don't want to flail around trying to figure this out. Thanks in advance.

Scott


mdainsd
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Re: Toe-in adjustment

Post by mdainsd » Tue Jun 14, 2022 9:22 am

lengthening the tie rods decreases toe in. Loosen both clamps on one tie rod and turn the center section to adjust small changes in toe in/out. I like 1/8" on my M38.
52 M38 2X, '52 M37, '44 WC51, '42 WC 56/57, '50 CJ-V35(U), '42 GPW, '44 M3A1 Scout Car, 2010 M-Gator

Scott in NM
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Re: Toe-in adjustment

Post by Scott in NM » Tue Jun 14, 2022 11:01 am

I thought lengthening them would be the correct way but I could also make the argument for the other. Appreciate the input. Now I just have to break the rust away so I can turn the shaft! I've tried several thermal cycles and PB Blaster, I know it will come eventually.

Scott

Scott in NM
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Re: Toe-in adjustment

Post by Scott in NM » Tue Jun 14, 2022 11:04 am

Forgot to ask - To reduce the toe0in 3/16" do I reduce length by 3/16"?

Scott

Ron D
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Re: Toe-in adjustment

Post by Ron D » Tue Jun 14, 2022 5:19 pm

No. There's no correlation.
Whatever adjustment you make to the tie rod you still need to measure the actual toe-in.
Procedure is in the manual.
Good luck!
Ron D
1951 M38
1951 M100

Scott in NM
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Re: Toe-in adjustment

Post by Scott in NM » Wed Jun 15, 2022 5:55 am

Figured, but hoping there was a correlation to remove the guesswork. Got toe in adjusted correctly now.

As an aside - For those that need to free up frozen tie rod ends, I used PB Blaster and some thermal cycling. Tried to bust things loose by placing the tie rod end in a vise and turning the tie rod with a pipe wrench applied to the end I was trying to get loose (past the slot and threaded area). Couldn't get the end to rotate. HOWEVER, once I applied the torque to the end opposite the vice and trice turning, the end in the vise broke free. Just remember that in all things rusty, once it starts turning/moving it will eventually come free. Just move back and forth incrementally, use your lubricant of choice, don't force it too far in one direction at once, and the degree movement will gradually increase until the parts come completely apart. Just thought I would pass this tidbit on to the newer folks out there.

Scott

Ron D
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Re: Toe-in adjustment

Post by Ron D » Wed Jun 15, 2022 6:29 am

I like to use an old school tie-rod wrench instead of chewing up the outer jacket with pipe wrenches, channel-locks, vice-grips, and the like.

The vintage wrench grabs the thread slot and opens it slightly (which helps break a rust bond and allows PB Blaster to get in better).

Here's an example of one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144580437148?h ... SwCFhh3jL3

There's a couple of different sizes of these wrenches for different size tie-rods.
Ron D
1951 M38
1951 M100


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