Body Frame bolt 3L

1950 - 1952, M38, questions, discussions, regarding anything related to the M38.
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Buster1
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Body Frame bolt 3L

Post by Buster1 » Sat Feb 12, 2022 5:01 pm

I’m replacing all my body/frame bolts and installing rubber cushions. I’m using Wes K’s guide and appropriate manuals. My M38 had no rubber cushions at all when I purchased her.

Anyway, my 3L bolt (the one below the fuel tank) that seems to have a nut welded inside the hat track has completely come free. What I mean is that the nut inside the hat track is no longer attached and the whole bolt, lock, washer and everything is loose and just swinging in the wind from the hat track :cry:

I can’t find a way to get at the loose nut and secure it. Am I just going to have to cut that bolt off and live with a loose nut in there?

Has anyone ever dealt with this before?

Thanks for any advice.
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dpcd67
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Re: Body Frame bolt 3L

Post by dpcd67 » Sun Feb 13, 2022 10:13 am

I never use that bolt location on an old, or new tub. You won't miss it.
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Buster1
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Re: Body Frame bolt 3L

Post by Buster1 » Mon Feb 14, 2022 4:49 am

Thanks dcpd. Yeah, methinks I’ll just leave it there and throw a rubber cushion in there and let it ride. That will at least keep it from rattling around forever.
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dpcd67
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Re: Body Frame bolt 3L

Post by dpcd67 » Mon Feb 14, 2022 7:31 am

Squirt RTV/gasket sealer into the hole and it will stop rattling.
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Rick E.
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Re: Body Frame bolt 3L

Post by Rick E. » Mon Feb 14, 2022 10:34 am

I imagine you will hardly notice one more rattle or vibration from the M38. Mine has many!

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dfield
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Re: Body Frame bolt 3L

Post by dfield » Tue Feb 15, 2022 5:41 am

I had to replace my hat channels and the replacements did not have the capture/welded nut. I just used an elevator bolt under my gas tank. If you can get the bolt and nut out, an elevator bolt works nicely inserted from the top downward.

Dave


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