Thoughts on this M38 w/ Arctic Top?

[JMZ421]

I can see in excess of $2,500 in needed parts just from the obvious. Bumpers, pintle hook, wiring harness, rifle holder, correct seats, antenna mount and most likely new tires. Also, the vacuum lines are missing from the engine to wipers which means most likely civy fuel pump and 12 volt. The blackouts are gone as is the drive light and rear lights. So, if you get a good price make sure to add all this stuff up and compare to what you can buy a more complete M38 for. Maybe it's your goal to start with something like this which is ok because the body look good. M38 does look solid but to make original will cost a bunch. Hopefully you can get this for a good price. Just my 2 cents . John

[mdainsd]

Good points John.
I forget that sometimes, as I have a 50 year accumulation of MV parts. But it is significant to someone who doesnt have that stuff.

With todays prices a set of 5 nice M38 wheels can set one back up to a thousand dollars.

[Buster1]

I can see in excess of $2,500 in needed parts just from the obvious. Bumpers, pintle hook, wiring harness, rifle holder, correct seats, antenna mount and most likely new tires. Also, the vacuum lines are missing from the engine to wipers which means most likely civy fuel pump and 12 volt. The blackouts are gone as is the drive light and rear lights. So, if you get a good price make sure to add all this stuff up and compare to what you can buy a more complete M38 for. Maybe it's your goal to start with something like this which is ok because the body look good. M38 does look solid but to make original will cost a bunch. Hopefully you can get this for a good price. Just my 2 cents . John

John, I appreciate that advice. I’ve been making a list too of stuff this M38 would need. So thanks for the help! I may jump on it if the frame and body are as clean and rust free as the seller describes. But it does need a lot. That can be good and bad as yo said, but possibly fun too!

[dpcd67]

Only fun; who wants to just pay money and buy something when they can get deeply involved and bring it back themselves? Anyone with $ can do that. You will have much more pride of ownership that way.
Another tip; Never add up costs of anything. You will be frustrated and angry. Just go with it. It's a disease, but also the cure.
If I was closer I would pop over and TI it for you.

[Buster1]

Couldn’t agree with you more on the restore it yourself aspect, and the not adding things up aspect! I actually used to own and maintain a 1969 V-tail Bonanza... and the #1 rule of aircraft ownership was NEVER add up the costs!

[Ken Perkins]

looks like the rifle holder is on the back seat....

[mdainsd]

Sharp eye! That just saved 150 bucks!

[JMZ421]

yes, but I missed the jerry can and spare tire mounts so subtract $150 and add another $275!!
I have some very nice original canvas seat covers you can have if you need them for this M38. They are in good shape. Just a FYI, John

[dpcd67]

$275....$150; those are spare change when restoring a military vehicle. Engines are $5000, professional body work is 6K, complete drive train OH is $4; All the 24 volt components are another $2. As I said, it's not the money. Your new soft top, bows, doors, will be another 1K. Your new windshield frame will be free; you can trade the old top for one.

[Buster1]

Questions:

I have been reading, with the side mounted spare tire, does that make this a CJ-3a? Perhaps someone just put it there years ago instead of on the tailgate.
How can I tell if this was a M38 originally? Apparently it doesn’t have the data plates, but the fuel cap is correct for a M38.

Thanks!

[dpcd67]

M38 ID: no side slots for water drainage; the drain holes are in the floor, passenger side indents for pioneer tools, holes in tail gate for gas can and spare tire carrier, holes in body side for top bow brackets (and this one still has the brackets and footman loops), large mouth fuel filler, fuel filler guard/handle, windshield vent plate bolted shut with brackets, M series tail light openings about 3 inch holes, front grill is hinged on and has large holes for blackout markers, black out driving light on left fender.
Those are some external differences in an M38 that a CJ3A does not have.
Here are others; on the frame you have reinforcements just aft of the bumper, frame tie down loops, bumper is bolted on and has the lifting eye brackets, rear bumperettes, inside, dash has a glove box, cutout for large gauge panel, large opening for M series light switch, opening for M series ignition switch, and hole for cold weather priming pump, early ones have the data plate set screwed into the dash so there are like 18 little holes in it, after mid 51 they went to a steel plate screwed onto the dash and under that is a big hole. Headlight rings and guards.
Battery box cover on the cowl.
Engine compartment; long list.
So, it is easy to tell an M38 from a CJ3A from outside, and inside. There are other differences of course, but these can usually be seen from pictures. And this one is, without any doubt, and M38. Get the green book and memorize it before you buy anything.
Oh, the spare tire carrier; all M38s are drilled on the right side for it in case some unit wanted to actually use the tail gate.

[Buster1]

WOW! Thank you!

Green book on order!

[Ron D]

Here's a pretty good checklist comparison between M38 and CJ3A https://www.cj3apage.com/index/m38.htm

[JMZ421]

You mentioned missing data plates twice now. Without them you will never know the DOD of this M38. You can tell if they are reproductions. John

[Buster1]

Ron, awesome! Thanks for that!

John, I know. Missing data plates has me down on this M38. There is something ‘special’ about having the original data plates. I don’t really know (or care) if having them (or not) affects value... but without them... there is something missing for me.