Will Not COAST
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- G-First Lieutenant
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Will Not COAST
Situation Abnormal,
Jeep brakes seem to drag and Jeep will not coast on a slight grade. I have replaced: steel lines, brake wheel cylinders, master cylinder, shoes and resurfaced drums. BUT with all 4 wheels on the ground the jeep requires "extra" effort to push. Even on a slight grade it stays in position. I have tried backing off the brakes shoes so no drag, backing off the e-brake shoes, and even removed the rear d-shaft. With the jeep in the air on hoist all 4 wheels freely turn with one finger. On the floor is a different story. It feels that something? is dragging. SO I jack up rear axle with floor jack AND I can push the jeep with just a little effort, which seems normal. Rear brake drums and hubs do not have excess play, so I don't think the drums are binding with weight on jeep on the floor.
This was not checked before I replaced the above parts therefore I don't know if it was a pre-existing issue.
Any one run into this situation OR have any other thoughts/ideas?
Thanks,
BRAD
Jeep brakes seem to drag and Jeep will not coast on a slight grade. I have replaced: steel lines, brake wheel cylinders, master cylinder, shoes and resurfaced drums. BUT with all 4 wheels on the ground the jeep requires "extra" effort to push. Even on a slight grade it stays in position. I have tried backing off the brakes shoes so no drag, backing off the e-brake shoes, and even removed the rear d-shaft. With the jeep in the air on hoist all 4 wheels freely turn with one finger. On the floor is a different story. It feels that something? is dragging. SO I jack up rear axle with floor jack AND I can push the jeep with just a little effort, which seems normal. Rear brake drums and hubs do not have excess play, so I don't think the drums are binding with weight on jeep on the floor.
This was not checked before I replaced the above parts therefore I don't know if it was a pre-existing issue.
Any one run into this situation OR have any other thoughts/ideas?
Thanks,
BRAD
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- G-Colonel
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Re: Will Not COAST
Are the pads firmly attached to the shoes? Mine had a little slop in the rivets and would drag at pushing speed. The drag wasn't noticeable with the Jeep on a lift or when adjusting the shoes.
Seth
******
1944 MB 349858, 20620361
1942 MBT 10968 viewtopic.php?f=18&t=149552
1942 MBT 15799, USA 0217497 viewtopic.php?f=18&t=225199
MVPA # 8587
Com / Inst. SMEL
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KI5LYB
Collecting Willys Engine Info. Please send me Engine #, Casting Date & Machining Date if known
******
1944 MB 349858, 20620361
1942 MBT 10968 viewtopic.php?f=18&t=149552
1942 MBT 15799, USA 0217497 viewtopic.php?f=18&t=225199
MVPA # 8587
Com / Inst. SMEL
CFII - ASEL
KI5LYB
Collecting Willys Engine Info. Please send me Engine #, Casting Date & Machining Date if known
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Re: Will Not COAST
Is it in four wheel drive?
52 M38 2X, '52 M37, '44 WC51, '42 WC 56/57, '50 CJ-V35(U), '42 GPW, '44 M3A1 Scout Car, 2010 M-Gator
- g.keating
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Re: Will Not COAST
is your brake pedal adjusted properly
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Re: Will Not COAST
As one other asked, is it in 4x4?
After installing my so called professionally rebuilt tranny and transfer, I’m getting binding in 4x4 LOW.
After removing transfer case pan, I can see why:
The sliding gear (item #42 I’m attached drawing)
Is somehow locked, or very tight.
Known as output clutch in some diagrams
In 4x4 mode the jeep
Is locked up. So I gotta take out my tranny/transfer and see what the H!!! is going on
After installing my so called professionally rebuilt tranny and transfer, I’m getting binding in 4x4 LOW.
After removing transfer case pan, I can see why:
The sliding gear (item #42 I’m attached drawing)
Is somehow locked, or very tight.
Known as output clutch in some diagrams
In 4x4 mode the jeep
Is locked up. So I gotta take out my tranny/transfer and see what the H!!! is going on
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- G-First Lieutenant
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Re: Will Not COAST
Response to some of the questions;
BOTH drive shafts are off the jeep. So 4WD is not the issue.
Brake shoes are "backed-off" the drums with excessive clearance. So no chance of rubbing. Brake pedal has some free play before whl. cyl. are activated.
Will check tightness/rivets of friction material to metal base.
THANKS for the ideas.
BRAD
BOTH drive shafts are off the jeep. So 4WD is not the issue.
Brake shoes are "backed-off" the drums with excessive clearance. So no chance of rubbing. Brake pedal has some free play before whl. cyl. are activated.
Will check tightness/rivets of friction material to metal base.
THANKS for the ideas.
BRAD
- dpcd67
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Re: Will Not COAST
Lift the jeep and try to turn each wheel by hand. It should be possible to do so. Then you will know which one it is.
U. S. Army 28 years.
Armor Branch
Armor Branch
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Re: Will Not COAST
Did you change out the hoses when you did the steel lines too?The rubber hoses have a tendency to plug up ,i have had the same issue. Brakes dragging and fluid not able to flow back,keeping the shoes engaged. I changed the hoses and cured the problem.
- dpcd67
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Re: Will Not COAST
Good point; when you replace brakes, replace everything; never do it one piece at a time. Steel and rubber, all wheel cylinders, and MC too. They are cheap.
U. S. Army 28 years.
Armor Branch
Armor Branch
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Re: Will Not COAST
Problem Solved,
After much time and trail and error, it was determined that with the weight of the jeep on the ground the right rear axle moved enough to bind the bottom of the brake drum on the bottom of the brake shoes. The problem was that the axle bearing race moved "in and out" of the axle housing. With the axle "out" the hub and drum would move "up" to contact the brake shoes just enough to create the drag. Apparently a previous repair used too many shims to adjust end play and the race was not forced into the axle housing properly. Sounds easy, but it sure took a lot of time to figure this one out.
Thanks for all the feed back.
Brad
After much time and trail and error, it was determined that with the weight of the jeep on the ground the right rear axle moved enough to bind the bottom of the brake drum on the bottom of the brake shoes. The problem was that the axle bearing race moved "in and out" of the axle housing. With the axle "out" the hub and drum would move "up" to contact the brake shoes just enough to create the drag. Apparently a previous repair used too many shims to adjust end play and the race was not forced into the axle housing properly. Sounds easy, but it sure took a lot of time to figure this one out.
Thanks for all the feed back.
Brad
- Rod
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Re: Will Not COAST
I recently had this problem and it was the adjustment on the Rod that goes from the Brake Pedal Lever to the Master Cylinder. I had the adjustment of the rod too long. I backed off the adjustment to make it a bit shorter and it resolved the problem.
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