Tie Bar Removal, bolt clearance

1950 - 1952, M38, questions, discussions, regarding anything related to the M38.
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Buster1
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Tie Bar Removal, bolt clearance

Post by Buster1 » Thu Jan 27, 2022 8:46 pm

I just replaced my clutch tube and had my brake pedal reamed and a bushing pressed in to fix a wobble. It seems like my brake master cylinder tie bar is also warped a little, and I’d like to straighten it out. I can remove one bolt from the tie bar and master cyl, but the rear bolt won’t come out all the way as it hits the transmission.

Any tricks or advice to remove this bolt so I can remove the tie bar? Do I need to remove the whole brake master cyl?

Thanks!
Last edited by Buster1 on Fri Jan 28, 2022 8:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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JMZ421
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Re: Tie Bar Removal, bolt clearance

Post by JMZ421 » Fri Jan 28, 2022 4:55 am

From what I experienced, short of removing the engine, you have to lower the MC to take that bar off. The bolt near the front of the vehicle needs installed while the MC is lowered then lifted up and then you have to wiggle the other bolt to get started so as not to cross thread. If have any signs of MC leakage would be a good time to replace. Ron has them in stock. The leaks at the fittings upon re-install is a whole other story John

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Buster1
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Re: Tie Bar Removal, bolt clearance

Post by Buster1 » Fri Jan 28, 2022 6:31 am

Thanks John. That’s what I was afraid of. I’m not ready to disconnect my MC and drop it. Brakes are operating great and I’m not ready to disturb that system.

Thanks for the advice. I think I’m going to have to live with the tie bar having a slight twist to it at the clutch tube, or maybe I can straighten it slightly before re-attaching.

UPDATE: With the MC bolts loose, and the front one removed so the tie bar could pivot down, I was able to do a little “engineering” on my tie bar and get some of the warp and twist out of it. Seems to be sitting much more flush against the side of the brake arm knuckle now!
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