M151A1 begining of new project

[hambone]

Pick you up a set of clamps like this at HF, they work well for aligning panels.

[Hell On Wheels]

Great idea Hambone. I'm also thinking of using weld magnets I belive that what those are.

[Hell On Wheels]

Here is my progress pictures, please keep in mind this is not a museum restoration and some folks out there do some excellent work. My work is motor pool standards to be a daily driver.

Like I mentioned before cutting down to the support brackets to get around the welds was going to be an issue. I thought of drilling them out with a spot weld drill bits but that seemed that would take too long then I decided to pull out the beast, "air hammer" with a chisel tip. This will allow me to get down to the bare weld then gid them down.







I caught hell with the support bracket and decide just to cut it out becuase cleaning up the welds would be really hard.



after griding down the weld residual and cleaning it up I’m pretty happy with the progress.



I tell you that when I removed all the metal the support channels were full of sand. I’m talking packed to appear as they were sold brackets rather than C channels. I need to get some rust restoration or maybe just use vinegar to stop the rust and treat the metal.

[Rickf]

Considering those rails are only sheet metal I am guessing there is little left to them. Cleaning them is fine but they will not last. Best to replace them now while you have it apart. As far as the spot welds all the shops now are using those skinny belt sanders and sanding the spot welds out. That way you get the whole weld without damaging the base part. If you really want to clean out the rails just go down the outside with a needle scaler, that will loosen up all the rust on the inside. It is up to you to figure out how to get it out. I will bet though that as soon as you hit those rails with the scaler you will find out just how thin they are.

[hambone]

I would hit the inside of those rails and other metal with a rust converter (like phosphoric acid), wire brush the scale off and spray it on, then hit it with primer/paint.

[Hell On Wheels]

That’s what I plan on doing in fact those rails were just surface rust and are structurally sound I put my body weight on them and they don’t even flex. I have a few pin holes that I intend to patch.

[Hell On Wheels]

Well today I decided to moving on to the rear fender top. This top is beat the "hell" up. Looks like they used it as a work bench.



After cutting out what I think the direction im going that lower coner pieace is bodon up and I need to replace that.



I don’t think I’m going to cut off the fender skirting I may make things worse I’m not no master fabricator I’m just a shade tree/jack of all and master of none . I haven’t decided. I wait till I get that corner piece. That cornor piece is in bad shape.

[Hell On Wheels]

On a lighter note I took my regualr A1 top and had it modifled to turned it into a summer top "bikini top". I know crazy right Turned out nice. Well Rick like you said I would be replacing the one I dyed but instead just used what I had.

[W. Winget]

The panel separators are not magnetic, Magnetism effect welding arcs (electrical arcs) and distorts the welds.
These type clamps go through the cut, pulling it flush from the inside, allow you to weld the piece in piece, then turn and be released. No need to remove from the backside of the panel.
Before Harbor Freight was everywhere, I bought a few from a gentleman on G503 for welding the DUKW up. Still haven't used them, but they sit with the welder just like a set of Cleco's and the Cleco tool I may need one day.
V/R W. Winget

[Rickf]

I think Eastwood was the first to offer them, probably still from China. They do work quite well. They keep the proper gap and you are only using them to position and tack the panel in anyway and then remove. What Will said about the magnets is very true, if you use them do so only to hold the piece in place and tack it in and remove as soon as possible because residual magnetism in the panel will raise hell with welding, especially if you are TIG welding.

[Hell On Wheels]

a few updates:

I finally was able to cut out that dam C channel around the side panel where the fender top meet. Thats was tought. Taking out the spot welds. I dont know but that was ruff like i said.


I had to cut that C channel out and destroyed my support panel. Made a replacement patch panel. In order for the fender top to weld to. In order to have that clean line.



Then a reweleded the C channel reenforcement panel. I couldnt find anyone who sold these so I jsut reweleded it and will treat the rust and get it ready to install once I start working on the fender top.


My battery panel arrived today so I did my ruff in fit.


I should be getting the rest of my panels by end of the week.

[hambone]

Those spot welds can be a PIA, looks like you have it going your way, grab some weld-thru primer if you haven't already.

[Hell On Wheels]

great idea I do need to get that stuff, thanks. What do you think of this brand?

[Dave M38A1]

Should work.
Shake really well, and spray out the nozzle with can upside down to clear it when done spraying. Had a lot of trouble with the nozzles clogging up. Used a lot of those cans welding in hat channels and under seat tool boxes. SEM products work well, their bed liner spray is really tough.
Years ago I used Galvanizing compound and painted it with a brush, but the fumes from welding galvanized metal are toxic. Won't do that anymore.

Good to use weld through primer to keep out rust.

Dave

[hambone]

That will work just fine.