M151A1 begining of new project

M151 General Discussion and Chat Board
Post Reply
User avatar
Hell On Wheels
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1529
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 1:19 pm
Location: San Antonio, TX
Contact:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Hell On Wheels » Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:07 pm

Thanks Rick,

I finally figured it out.

I'm in the middle of tearing down my top end and taking a lunch break. Now I have time to post a few questions.

Q1. the exhaust manifold doesn't seem to want to break loose/come out. Its lose and I can shift it left and right and lift it a little in the front.but it wont break loose from the back end at the fire wall. There are a two bolts that broke during the disassembly is that holding it back? Is this common? I don't want to pry it off with the risk of breaking it.
Image


Q2. These water pump hose/fittings coming off the top of the water pump above the large return. It doesn't seem to be doing nothing but looping. It kinda looks odd are these fitting only if I'm running a heater? Can I cap these off?
Image
Robert

1966 - M151A1
1986 - M998
2007 - M1102
2009 - H3T

Hell on Wheels https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCi_blL ... z7Ukw8gbHg


markrdje
USMC Sergeant
USMC Sergeant
Posts: 946
Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 12:44 pm
Location:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by markrdje » Mon Dec 30, 2019 1:45 pm

I remember a shut off for each of the heater hoses
change user name to mark

User avatar
D Pizzoferrato
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1662
Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2002 4:15 pm
Location: Richmond Ohio
Contact:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by D Pizzoferrato » Tue Dec 31, 2019 3:29 am

Reach around the back side of the down pipe. There is a bolt or stud with nut that secures the manifold to the engine block that needs removed. If you can't find it by feel, get a small mechanic's mirror and have a look. The triangular boss on the manifold is still secured to the block Image

The two water fittings are for heater flow. They should have valves with the heater kit install. The hose loop is a hillbilly shutoff valve (no disrespect meant to hillbillys). You can eliminate the fittings and plug the ports.
David Pizzoferrato
Pizzoferrato Ent./Weebee Webbing
Visit our Website! www.odcloth.com for your Canvas needs

User avatar
Hell On Wheels
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1529
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 1:19 pm
Location: San Antonio, TX
Contact:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Hell On Wheels » Tue Dec 31, 2019 5:10 am

Yes I’m so lazy, if I would read the TM I figured out I needed to remove that last bolt 🤦‍♂️. Heck I used to get after my soldiers for doing the same. I just figured this was not as complicated as working on M1 Abrams but go figure :mrgreen:

Ok, I plan on installing a few plugs. Don’t need heat in south Texas when winter only last 45 days total.

So now I need to work on removing two broken exhaust bolts and maybe send out the head to be resurfaced because the leak was between 2-3 left side so I’m thinking either warped or bad gasket
Robert

1966 - M151A1
1986 - M998
2007 - M1102
2009 - H3T

Hell on Wheels https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCi_blL ... z7Ukw8gbHg

Rickf
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 5911
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:04 am
Location: Pemberton, New Jersey

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Rickf » Tue Dec 31, 2019 7:35 am

I will bet the head was just never retorqued after the gasket was put on or replaced. If you are sending out to a machine shop then just have them remove the broken bolts. If you are going to try to do it yourself be sure to get a couple NEW drill bits, one small and one just under the 3/8 bolt size. I am pretty sure they are 3/'8" If the head was 9/16 then they are 3/8" if the head was 1/2" then they are 5/16" you want the second bit to just barely touch the threads in the hole. But you need new quality bits to cut the stainless steel. Cheap or used bits will not do it. I also STRONGLY suggest using grade 5 or grade 8 regular bolts when going back together. Try to find plated bolts and you will never have this problem again. If you can't find plated bolts use never seize. The torque specs are so low that the never seize will not affect the readings to any measurable degree. Hint, Tractor Supply has the plated bolts cheap. They sell all nuts and bolts by weight. Yes, they are Chinese but all the tests I have seen done on them have been favorable.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

User avatar
W. Winget
LTC, U.S. Army
LTC, U.S. Army
Posts: 4446
Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2002 10:37 am
Location: USA, Virginia, Carrollton
Contact:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by W. Winget » Tue Dec 31, 2019 5:51 pm

Fittings up front might also be your front engine lift loop. Don't cap them off.
Obviously if no heater, then cap those off if your water pump doesn't have a pipe inserted (looks that way) you could run 3 inch hose with a stud in the end of the hose clamped in..or loop a couple of inches of hose back to the inlet/outlet fitting....not Motorpool, but efficient.
V/R and Happy New Year!
W. Winget
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts

User avatar
Hell On Wheels
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1529
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 1:19 pm
Location: San Antonio, TX
Contact:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Hell On Wheels » Thu Jan 02, 2020 9:51 am

so now the head is off and Im cleaning all the parts, when I go to place the head back on I should rotate so the #1 cylinder/piston all the way up to set the valve clearance IAW to the TM placing the #1 cylinder TDC. The cylinders are number front the radiator to firewall 1,2,3 & 4 correct?

Image
Robert

1966 - M151A1
1986 - M998
2007 - M1102
2009 - H3T

Hell on Wheels https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCi_blL ... z7Ukw8gbHg

User avatar
W. Winget
LTC, U.S. Army
LTC, U.S. Army
Posts: 4446
Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2002 10:37 am
Location: USA, Virginia, Carrollton
Contact:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by W. Winget » Thu Jan 02, 2020 10:01 am

Yes 1-4 front to back.
I prefer to set the valves when warm, as I have had a "MUTT" with a rod or two off their rocker and less clearance is better, but start with cold and you can set as you go. Oil doesn't squirt out the top of the engine as it is running with the valve cover off, you may have a small leakage over the side of the head body, but it's not shooting out everywhere.
V/R W. Winget
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts

Rickf
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 5911
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:04 am
Location: Pemberton, New Jersey

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Rickf » Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:36 pm

Be sure number one is up on compression stroke and not exhaust stroke. Drop the pushrods in and when they are both down and not rocking then it is the compression stroke.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

User avatar
Hell On Wheels
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1529
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 1:19 pm
Location: San Antonio, TX
Contact:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Hell On Wheels » Thu Jan 02, 2020 7:38 pm

ok I need to check that, good point.
Robert

1966 - M151A1
1986 - M998
2007 - M1102
2009 - H3T

Hell on Wheels https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCi_blL ... z7Ukw8gbHg

Rickf
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 5911
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:04 am
Location: Pemberton, New Jersey

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Rickf » Fri Jan 03, 2020 7:21 am

This is not something you really need to worry about until the head is on and the rocker shaft is on and ready to adjust. This is FAR from an interference engine so there is no way a valve can contact a piston. I would get to the point of head on and tight and then drop in the pushrods and at that point bring up number one on TDC of compression. It will be easy then because you can turn it with the fan and watch the pushrods as you do so. Go just a hair past the timing mark and you are there. Install the rockers and do your initial setting.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

User avatar
Hell On Wheels
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1529
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 1:19 pm
Location: San Antonio, TX
Contact:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Hell On Wheels » Mon Jan 06, 2020 4:55 pm

got to working on the head/gasket replacement here I am torquing down the first sequence
Image

after installing head I ran into an exhaust manifold problem. The holes would line up on the pre welded bolts. I was in all that the bolts welded were metric M10x1. Thinking this manifold was from Vietnam maybe. So I had to pull out the trusty tanker bar to pull back the exhaust pipe to align but I had to bore out the bolt holes.
Image

Once I finished installing the manifold gasket and installed all remaining parts I ran for a bit then retorqued everything. I got to say I thought I may run into a starting problem but as soon as I hit the start switch it started right away. Unbelievable. Then went for a road test came home and retorqued again.
Front of engine
Image

LS of engine
Image
I removed the water ports and plugged off with hex plugs and removed that water line. One thing I hate is how the previous owner made that 2x4 inch hole on the fire wall I need to weld up.

RS of engine
Image
I know that fuel bulb is not specs but I can only think it would help remove the cramp that may get past the inline filter and pump filter. A few notes on my original picture the intake manifold the previous owner installed a 1/2 coarse thread bolt to plug the right side of the manifold port and I installed to hex plugs for a better look. I'm thinking this intake manifold may be from a later model with the EPA system hence the two ports on opposite side of the manifold valve.

went for a final road test and I was finally able to get to 60MPH and have no leaks. :D
Robert

1966 - M151A1
1986 - M998
2007 - M1102
2009 - H3T

Hell on Wheels https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCi_blL ... z7Ukw8gbHg

markrdje
USMC Sergeant
USMC Sergeant
Posts: 946
Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 12:44 pm
Location:

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by markrdje » Mon Jan 06, 2020 5:13 pm

You have your sides mixed up, but it is all relative to your viewing
change user name to mark

Rickf
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 5911
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:04 am
Location: Pemberton, New Jersey

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Rickf » Tue Jan 07, 2020 9:57 am

Looks good, did you readjust the valves? Any time you have the head off you will need to check the valve adjustment. The fuel filter is a common add on although most people just use a clear plastic disposable type. The problem is the way it is attached to the carb. The fitting on the carb is a straight thread and the fitting have screwed in there is pipe thread and is tapered. The thread count is the same so it is a common mistake. There are two special fittings that are supposed to be used in the carb, one for the A1 that is a 90 degree fitting and one for the A2 which is a 30 degree fitting. Once you put in the tapered pipe thread you usually cannot go back to the straight thread because the threads in the carb have been hogged out. Te problem with this is that it can split the carb body if forced to hard.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

Rickf
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 5911
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:04 am
Location: Pemberton, New Jersey

Re: M151A1 begining of new project

Post by Rickf » Tue Jan 07, 2020 10:01 am

I just looked closely at the last picture and you do actually have the correct fitting for the fuel line to the carburetor but it is on the inlet side of the filters which in fact would be a pipe thread fitting normally. Do NOT lose that fitting as they are getting very hard to find.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone


Post Reply

Return to “M151 General Discussion Board”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 44 guests