My evolution of my M998

[Hell On Wheels]

Here is what I wanted a clamp for. I was trying to do to allow easy removal of my iPad from the moniter housing.











You have to remove the original screws from the monitor housing that actually mount to the base and replace with shorter screws. Then drill out the screw holes to allow to counter sink the heads of the screws. For the top side place some dummies screws to give the same appearance. Then place two hinges on the bottom and a lock clamp on top. I tend to use my iPad more for home use and only for shows or static displays in the HMMWV. I wanted easy removal.

[998 humvee]

ROBERT

Great pics and information..I hope to duplicate your set up. Suggestion you can purchase a second ipad a gen 4 on facebook market for less then 100 bucks which is cell and wifi connection. Making a dedicated ipad. That's the direction for me and ill use my cell phone as a hot spot to provide wifi to that ipad while at an event or display..

Anyway in the pic attached you can see the BFT tray I have and the red arrow is the only keyboard space I have, my tray doesn't have the other verticle slot like in your pic...the static keyboard you have is exactly what I've been looking at but didn't know if it would fit into my storage tray ( red arrow). Can you confirm for me, if you know?

Lastly great suggestion if the static keyboard doesn't fit my keyboard space then ill shop for a blue tooth keyboard in the size...

Thanks again for the help
Kevin

[Hell On Wheels]

Hello Kevin,

I get you about buying the older iPad but you know apple they always control the use of old platforms by not allowing updates and not allowing all aps to work. Thats what I ran into with my older iPad I was orgianlly using. I just caved - lol.

I dont have that version of radio rack but here are some pictures with measurements so you can compare to your options. Remember the MilSpec key board can be a standalone and doesnt need to mount to the slide rack in my picture. Beltfed on the G and on Ebay he has the keyboard rack, screen and keyboard

https://www.ebay.com/str/austinaviation ... tore_cat=7





https://www.ebay.com/itm/204037508398?h ... Sw0VBi0KG2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325375062808?h ... SwOcZjQjh1

[998 humvee]

Robert.

Thanks those measurements really help a lot.

I totally agree on the ipad issue

I been talking with beltfed about what he currebtly has..he checking for me in monitor screen and computer shell...key boards he def has..

What's a real shame is less then 5 miles from my house is one of DRS plants. All fenced off, as it should. Been trying to catch someone outside i could ask about a shell...well see..

Again thanks for all the help...

[Hell On Wheels]

I’ve been away for a while working on my M151A1 and giving it some TLC and major body repairs. So now I’m back posting a great new idea I came up with. Ok for the hard-core purist now is the time to walk away .

Now that we got that all cleared up. Like I say allot when your downrange you come up with many ideas to make it work. If you have been tracking my post, I made some major modifications to my turret. So I made the hatch and could not find the hatch bracket that locks to the rear. When the gun shield is in place the hatch rest on the shield. But the problem is when I don’t have the shield in place and I open the hatch. There lies the problem. Without the correct hatch lock that nobody seems to have or have at a realistic price. I’ve seen one for $2,000.00 yeah right. I needed a way to open my hatch and not lay down on the roof. In the old system they have the plate the hatch falls onto keeping off the roof. So, I bought this MRAP Door Stop or something. I liked it because it has gussets for strength. Here it is.



So then I needed to figure out what to do with this. I had a moment.

Then I thought about removing the rubber stop and placing a wheel on it in order for the hatch to rest on it and allow easy traversing of the turret. Here you go it worked. Ok rememebr this is a M998 with many modifications and a home made hatch.





If anyone who is not familiar with HMMWV's and they ask me what is it? I'll say its an antenna to warn of wires which allows it to roll over the vehicle or something.

This is why for the purist if they catch how I made the hatch bi-fold in rather than out. This is why.

[998 humvee]

Robert

Very clever and certainly works..look good. Todd has some of those locks if you chose to go that way....

Keep up the innovation

[Hell On Wheels]

I would like to get one at a reasonable price this is just holding me up until then. Todd a.k.a. "CHASWINGMAN" let me ask.

[Hell On Wheels]

i finally was able to get the hatch bracket so along with mounting it I had to cut back my base mounting place on the weapon sheild in order for it to align and level out. Here are a few pictures of my install.



Top view how it all ligns up.


In this close up here is where I cut back the bottom mounting plate to go around the hatch bracket and made the side mounting brackets from the hatch bracket and gunners protection. Dont laugh at my welding, learning as I weld more.


I just need a hatch lock. I'm thinking of making a simliar version or if I can copy it. Does anyone have the locking bar?

[Hell On Wheels]

Decided to drive my HMMWV to work on tuesday and while driving on the highway I notice a exhaust leak or little loss of power. After getting home later after work I started to investigate I notice a few bolts where missing and fell out or something. So, I didn’t have the right allen key bolts and just used what I had. Then went for a test drive and still had a leak. It wasn’t as loud but it still had a leak. I was thinking either the manifold cracked or the gasket blew out. Now the hard decision on what approach to remove the exhaust manifold. I didnt want to have to pull the engine nor drop the starter. I decided to remove the over flow reservoir and hoses to get from the top and through the rear engine access panel. So everything worked out removing it. The gasket was torn to hell.





Cleaned up the head and exhaust manifold to have a clean bond. I had plenty of gaskets but I didn’t have the correct bolts turns out I was missing four!!! I looked on line and a few places had some but I wanted to try to finish this weekend. Turns out that Home Depot has the exact bolt M10x1.5 and 1 inch.



Put all together finshed a test run no leaks. Probably go for a road test tomorrow.

Forgot to mention one thing I had a 3/8 drive air ratchet taking it apart that worked but it was a pain to maneuver around. I went to buy a 1/4 drive air rachet and used a 1/4 drive 8mm. What an ease so much easier putting it back together. Torqued them down with a breaker bar.