JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
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JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Hi
Was hoping to find out if anyone has any information on this new Voltage regulator. I realize it is just now being sold. Has a switch to switch 6 to 12 volts. Hoping its on a "B" circuit. Hope this is the correct area for my question. Many thanks.
John
Was hoping to find out if anyone has any information on this new Voltage regulator. I realize it is just now being sold. Has a switch to switch 6 to 12 volts. Hoping its on a "B" circuit. Hope this is the correct area for my question. Many thanks.
John
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
I went to the JMP site and looked this VR up. In the GPW electrical section.
Add says, it is for early 6 volt GPW & MB systems. Which would be Type B.
Flip an internal switch to change to 12 volt. No doubt a resistance change in the board circuit to adapt to the increased voltage.
Makes me think that would be Type B as well.
The circuit board is the newer electronic unit.
These type circuit boards don't like polarity changes. Usually generate smoke when this happens.
Add says, it is for early 6 volt GPW & MB systems. Which would be Type B.
Flip an internal switch to change to 12 volt. No doubt a resistance change in the board circuit to adapt to the increased voltage.
Makes me think that would be Type B as well.
The circuit board is the newer electronic unit.
These type circuit boards don't like polarity changes. Usually generate smoke when this happens.
Mike Wolford
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
The JMP unit looks much like this one that I bought from France a couple of years ago, then sold. I’m now using a drop in unit from COL Gaston Barmore. The $80 price and reliability is hard to beat.
James Teel
Retired Police Sergeant/Bomb Tech
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Edmond, Oklahoma
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'43 Willys MB/ITM jeep
‘42 SS Cars lightweight trailer
<><
James Teel
Retired Police Sergeant/Bomb Tech
SFC OKARNG
Edmond, Oklahoma
MVPA 30889
'43 Willys MB/ITM jeep
‘42 SS Cars lightweight trailer
<><
James Teel
Police Sergeant/Bomb Tech-Ret.
SFC OKARNG-Ret.
Edmond, Oklahoma
'43 Willys MB/ITM jeep
‘42 SS Cars lightweight trailer
<><
Police Sergeant/Bomb Tech-Ret.
SFC OKARNG-Ret.
Edmond, Oklahoma
'43 Willys MB/ITM jeep
‘42 SS Cars lightweight trailer
<><
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Here I go. Thinking on-line again.
Obviously this unit works. A lot of good comments about it.
I am looking at the large heat sinks on the a couple of the electrical components.
No doubt a lot of heat is being generated that needs to be dissipated and good air flow would be a big plus.
This unit is sealed up inside an air tight cover.
???
Just thinking.
Obviously this unit works. A lot of good comments about it.
I am looking at the large heat sinks on the a couple of the electrical components.
No doubt a lot of heat is being generated that needs to be dissipated and good air flow would be a big plus.
This unit is sealed up inside an air tight cover.
???
Just thinking.
Mike Wolford
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Thanks to all for the information.
john
john
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Good point. If it sealed, long term durability may be an issue.Wolfman wrote: ↑Tue Mar 23, 2021 6:14 amHere I go. Thinking on-line again.
Obviously this unit works. A lot of good comments about it.
I am looking at the large heat sinks on the a couple of the electrical components.
No doubt a lot of heat is being generated that needs to be dissipated and good air flow would be a big plus.
This unit is sealed up inside an air tight cover.
???
Just thinking.
Just thinking, someone could cut two holes in the bottom and install a small fan over one hole which would really get the air moving though the unit. It could be set on a thermostat really easy. High end radio control cars use high output very quite fans with built in thermostats to cool the electronics and motors. They can run on 6 or 12 volts.
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
I've never has any overheating problem with my regulator.
The heat sink is covering 3 double Schottky diodes with a very low voltage drop.
So there is almost no heat generated.
The main power switching transistor is also at ease with the other heat sink.
However you need to take care of having a very good PCB grounding!
I was also not sure of the assembly quality.
So I have reworked the PCB prior to install in the original VR casing.
First remove any trace of flu in case they are using a corrosive solder lux
One particular point of attention is to add some silicon/rubber to avoid the vibration of big components like the main fuse.
Verify the 3 main VR connections
Improve the thermal transfer as there is no thermal paste between the heat sink and the semiconductors.
There are no indications in the user guide about the cooling of that device.
So why damaging an original Auto-Lite casing?
Yves
The heat sink is covering 3 double Schottky diodes with a very low voltage drop.
So there is almost no heat generated.
The main power switching transistor is also at ease with the other heat sink.
However you need to take care of having a very good PCB grounding!
I was also not sure of the assembly quality.
So I have reworked the PCB prior to install in the original VR casing.
First remove any trace of flu in case they are using a corrosive solder lux
One particular point of attention is to add some silicon/rubber to avoid the vibration of big components like the main fuse.
Verify the 3 main VR connections
Improve the thermal transfer as there is no thermal paste between the heat sink and the semiconductors.
There are no indications in the user guide about the cooling of that device.
So why damaging an original Auto-Lite casing?
Yves
Ford GPW 1943 - Louisville - DoD 12-7-43
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Good points, Yves.
Photo 1
The board looks to be hand soldered. Logical. These are not mass produced and the expense of automation to do the soldering job would definitely not be cost effective.
I have had the honor of going through GM's Delco Electronics factory in Kokomo, In. a few years ago and watch digital components, like ICs and transistors, being made from a molten silicon rod that was formed from a heated ladle, through completely assembled circuit boards.
Won't go into it all that here. Not enough time & space, but I found it extremely interesting.
In the factory, all the components were placed on the top side of the circuit board with the connections through holes, then the board, on a transport, was " floated" across the surface of a pot of molten solder. The solder adhered to the exposed contacts on the board and leads that were sticking through the holes in the board to make the solder connections. All solder connections were very smooth.
This board in the pic has the hand soldered look. Not that this is bad. Just noting what I see.
Also make note of the three vertical screws on the right side of the picture. I will get back to them later.
Photo 2
Your suggestion of adding the silicone as a vibration damper is well founded. The fuse holder is free floating in air, on two wires and when installed, it will be bouncing along on the fender of a jeep. It needs the extra support.
Photo 3
Not sure that everyone will understand why you put the white gooey stuff on the 3 voltage regulators. The 3 black square things with 3 legs.
The heat sink is removed in the photo. The square aluminum thing with fins on top, on the left side of the photo.
Once assembled, the flat side of the heat sink is sitting on top of the 3 VRs, attached by the 3 screws I referred to in photo 1.
The 3 VRs are clamped between the circuit board and the heat sink and the white goo is a special paste ( not tooth paste) that helps transfer heat from the VRs to the heat sink. The white goo needs to be there.
To late to edit so I will help you out.
At the beginning of your post, you referred to cleaning up the " flu" on the circuit board. No doubt a typo. "Flu" should have been "Flux". As in soldering flux.
Yes, that needs done too.
Photo 1
The board looks to be hand soldered. Logical. These are not mass produced and the expense of automation to do the soldering job would definitely not be cost effective.
I have had the honor of going through GM's Delco Electronics factory in Kokomo, In. a few years ago and watch digital components, like ICs and transistors, being made from a molten silicon rod that was formed from a heated ladle, through completely assembled circuit boards.
Won't go into it all that here. Not enough time & space, but I found it extremely interesting.
In the factory, all the components were placed on the top side of the circuit board with the connections through holes, then the board, on a transport, was " floated" across the surface of a pot of molten solder. The solder adhered to the exposed contacts on the board and leads that were sticking through the holes in the board to make the solder connections. All solder connections were very smooth.
This board in the pic has the hand soldered look. Not that this is bad. Just noting what I see.
Also make note of the three vertical screws on the right side of the picture. I will get back to them later.
Photo 2
Your suggestion of adding the silicone as a vibration damper is well founded. The fuse holder is free floating in air, on two wires and when installed, it will be bouncing along on the fender of a jeep. It needs the extra support.
Photo 3
Not sure that everyone will understand why you put the white gooey stuff on the 3 voltage regulators. The 3 black square things with 3 legs.
The heat sink is removed in the photo. The square aluminum thing with fins on top, on the left side of the photo.
Once assembled, the flat side of the heat sink is sitting on top of the 3 VRs, attached by the 3 screws I referred to in photo 1.
The 3 VRs are clamped between the circuit board and the heat sink and the white goo is a special paste ( not tooth paste) that helps transfer heat from the VRs to the heat sink. The white goo needs to be there.
To late to edit so I will help you out.
At the beginning of your post, you referred to cleaning up the " flu" on the circuit board. No doubt a typo. "Flu" should have been "Flux". As in soldering flux.
Yes, that needs done too.
Mike Wolford
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Thanks Mike for the additional details.
Forgot to include the user guide to concatenate the words .
Yes I meant flux. I was afraid it was a corrosive flux.
Normally not, but we never know.
Yes these Voltage Regulator boards were partially assembled manually.
That's the usual process when you have odd or heavy components, like in power supplies, invertes etc...
The top side was also partially assembled with an SMD machine followed by a reflow oven.
It's a good solution to keep that VR board into the waterproof VR casing because they are not coated against moisture.
If I remember well, I've coated mine with an urethane varnish.
After applying that paste you press and screw the heat sink on the semiconductors.
Exactly what you have to do with your CPU and heat sink+ fan in your PC .
If you want to remember your visit in an electronic shop, have a look to that video starting at 2min 22sec.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVu2pl57x8w
It starts with the bottom SMD components gluing process.
That's a video I have taken in 1997 or 1998 in our production facility prior prior to sell it.
That's the reason why the activity was so low.
And it was acquired... together with me , by an Idaho based company .
A few months after, that shop was completely up fitted to the highest standards to produce among others memory modules and Internet/network devices.
For the today standards, these automatic machines are very, very slow !
That 's a typical assembly shop for through hole and SMD components, followed by the manual assembly, test/programming and packaging.
Yves
Ouch, flu ...then lux.First remove any trace of flu in case they are using a corrosive solder lux
Forgot to include the user guide to concatenate the words .
Yes I meant flux. I was afraid it was a corrosive flux.
Normally not, but we never know.
Yes these Voltage Regulator boards were partially assembled manually.
That's the usual process when you have odd or heavy components, like in power supplies, invertes etc...
The top side was also partially assembled with an SMD machine followed by a reflow oven.
It's a good solution to keep that VR board into the waterproof VR casing because they are not coated against moisture.
If I remember well, I've coated mine with an urethane varnish.
That's a special white thermal paste used to improve the heat transfer towards the heat sink.Not sure that everyone will understand why you put the white gooey stuff on the 3 voltage regulators
After applying that paste you press and screw the heat sink on the semiconductors.
Exactly what you have to do with your CPU and heat sink+ fan in your PC .
If you want to remember your visit in an electronic shop, have a look to that video starting at 2min 22sec.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVu2pl57x8w
It starts with the bottom SMD components gluing process.
That's a video I have taken in 1997 or 1998 in our production facility prior prior to sell it.
That's the reason why the activity was so low.
And it was acquired... together with me , by an Idaho based company .
A few months after, that shop was completely up fitted to the highest standards to produce among others memory modules and Internet/network devices.
For the today standards, these automatic machines are very, very slow !
That 's a typical assembly shop for through hole and SMD components, followed by the manual assembly, test/programming and packaging.
Yves
Ford GPW 1943 - Louisville - DoD 12-7-43
serial 164794
serial 164794
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
That was an interesting video, at least to me.
What I saw years earlier, being done several years later and all automated.
The Delco Remy line I went through was assembling car radio boards.
At about the 5 minute point in the video, a robot was placing components on a PC board. One at a time. Looked pretty slow.
On the Delco line, the board was moving down a track, between 2 rows of ladies. Each lady had four pans of different electrical components in front of them. They would pick a component out of each pan and place it where it went on each board as it went past.
The boards were lined up in a row and there was an endless, steady stream of boards going down the line.
From the time any board started down the line empty until it came out the finished end with all components in place, did not take very long.
As the assembled board came off the finished end, the last thing it crossed over the solder pot, similar to what was at about the 9 minute point of the video.
The boards went through a quick check and if it passed, it was on it's way to a radio chassis.
Observation,
The old line with the ladies seemed to me to be faster, but the ladies were all paid by the hour, with benefits, on shifts.
The automated line was just the expense of the equipment and worked non-stop, 24/7. Not many people.
The factory I went through is mostly empty now. A lot of jobs lost to robots, but effective and probably more profitable.
Welcome to the 21st Century.
What I saw years earlier, being done several years later and all automated.
The Delco Remy line I went through was assembling car radio boards.
At about the 5 minute point in the video, a robot was placing components on a PC board. One at a time. Looked pretty slow.
On the Delco line, the board was moving down a track, between 2 rows of ladies. Each lady had four pans of different electrical components in front of them. They would pick a component out of each pan and place it where it went on each board as it went past.
The boards were lined up in a row and there was an endless, steady stream of boards going down the line.
From the time any board started down the line empty until it came out the finished end with all components in place, did not take very long.
As the assembled board came off the finished end, the last thing it crossed over the solder pot, similar to what was at about the 9 minute point of the video.
The boards went through a quick check and if it passed, it was on it's way to a radio chassis.
Observation,
The old line with the ladies seemed to me to be faster, but the ladies were all paid by the hour, with benefits, on shifts.
The automated line was just the expense of the equipment and worked non-stop, 24/7. Not many people.
The factory I went through is mostly empty now. A lot of jobs lost to robots, but effective and probably more profitable.
Welcome to the 21st Century.
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
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AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Yes that robot FIP I is placing fine pitch or Ball Grid Array components that needs to be very accurately positioned on the top side of the board.At about the 5 minute point in the video, a robot was placing components on a PC board. One at a time. Looked pretty slow.
It is the slowest SMD process. The FIP II was a little faster and more accurate.
If you are a fan of ultra high speed placement have a look at that Chip Shooter placing 500 components on a board.
You cannot follow the movement
https://youtu.be/nah4BQ9y8IY
With certain boards, the zeroing process takes more time than the placement time.
Yves
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Shazam !!! As Gomer Pyle would say.
That is fast !
The ladies were good but they wouldn't stand a chance against this thing.
That is fast !
The ladies were good but they wouldn't stand a chance against this thing.
Mike Wolford
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
What is the red light for? does it go on when charging or when there is power?
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
Not wishing to hi jack this thread but i installed an electronic replacement similar to the ones being discussed here. Note, it isnt any of the ones being specifically described.
However, after installing and checking the voltage, i find that my generator is kicking out 15v (it is a 12v Dodge command) and the regulator is allowing this. As i also have electronic ignition, i am told this will fry the ignition.
Does anyone know how/if i can adjust the electronic regulator to dial down the output a bit.
Thanks
Andrew
However, after installing and checking the voltage, i find that my generator is kicking out 15v (it is a 12v Dodge command) and the regulator is allowing this. As i also have electronic ignition, i am told this will fry the ignition.
Does anyone know how/if i can adjust the electronic regulator to dial down the output a bit.
Thanks
Andrew
GPW 3568 (3-18-42)
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Bantam T3 72591 (6_20_45)
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1965 Mustang Fastback K code
1965 Sunbeam Tiger Mk1A
1972 Porsche 911S
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Re: JMP 6-12v Voltage regulator
No way to adjust an electronic regulator. At least not the ones I am familiar with.
???
When are you getting this reading ?
On first start up or after the engine has been running a bit ?
After sitting and on first start, the charge rate and voltage are usually higher but once the engine has run a while and the system stabilizes, the readings settle back to normal levels.
15 volts on start up should not damage anything.
What is your amp gauge showing ?
The amp gauge usually shows a higher reading on initial start and then drops back.
Also wondering what equipment you are using to measure the voltage.
Older analog volt/ohm meters have to be adjusted before use and cheaper digital volt/ ohm meters are pretty radical in their read out.
One other thought. Ground connections. A bad ground on anything usually creates strange problems.
???
When are you getting this reading ?
On first start up or after the engine has been running a bit ?
After sitting and on first start, the charge rate and voltage are usually higher but once the engine has run a while and the system stabilizes, the readings settle back to normal levels.
15 volts on start up should not damage anything.
What is your amp gauge showing ?
The amp gauge usually shows a higher reading on initial start and then drops back.
Also wondering what equipment you are using to measure the voltage.
Older analog volt/ohm meters have to be adjusted before use and cheaper digital volt/ ohm meters are pretty radical in their read out.
One other thought. Ground connections. A bad ground on anything usually creates strange problems.
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
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