Issue with the points.
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Issue with the points.
I am having a hard time getting quality points for my 44 GPW.
Is there an easy drop in conversion to make it an electronic ignition? I’d like to jot change the look of possible.
Is there an easy drop in conversion to make it an electronic ignition? I’d like to jot change the look of possible.
- YLG80
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Re: Issue with the points.
Pertronix or Powersparks electronic ignition.
Powersparks is cheaper than Pertronics
Both are a just replacing the points by an Hall effect magnetic proximity switch.
There is no longer any mechanics involved in the switching.
You replace the points by a little Hall effect module and a little magnetic ring around the distributor cam shaft.
Or you simply remove the original distributor plate and you replace it by the new one + the magnetic ring.
Once you will have adjusted the ignition advance, it will almost be the last time you will have adjusted the advance.
Both brands are offering direct drop-in products for the jeep.
Yves
Powersparks is cheaper than Pertronics
Both are a just replacing the points by an Hall effect magnetic proximity switch.
There is no longer any mechanics involved in the switching.
You replace the points by a little Hall effect module and a little magnetic ring around the distributor cam shaft.
Or you simply remove the original distributor plate and you replace it by the new one + the magnetic ring.
Once you will have adjusted the ignition advance, it will almost be the last time you will have adjusted the advance.
Both brands are offering direct drop-in products for the jeep.
Yves
Ford GPW 1943 - Louisville - DoD 12-7-43
serial 164794
serial 164794
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Re: Issue with the points.
don't jump start with those electronic module.
- YLG80
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Re: Issue with the points.
Any reason or explanation? Could you elaborate?
Ford GPW 1943 - Louisville - DoD 12-7-43
serial 164794
serial 164794
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Re: Issue with the points.
the module very voltage sensitive. if jump sometimes it burn out.
- YLG80
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Re: Issue with the points.
Thanks.
A common reason for these modules to burn is the primary ignition coil switching current.
The installation notice clearly indicates that the primary ignition coil resistance must be above 3 ohms.
This is to reduce the switching current in the Hall effect module.
With 1,5 ohms and 6V, the Amp current is 4A while with 3 ohms it gets down to 2 A.
If one installs the electronic ignition module AND keeps the original WWII Autolite coil (R <1.5 ohms) or any other low resistance coil like my Bosch coil (1,4 ohms), he has no to be surprised to have soon or later a burned ignition coil (getting too hot) or a burned electronic module, or both .
It's just a matter of adding a 1.6 ohms ballast resistor in series between the module and the ignition coil (+) post.
Like this: That s' a must do !
Like any mechanical device, electronic or electrical devices have also their constraints that must be respected .
Yves
Ford GPW 1943 - Louisville - DoD 12-7-43
serial 164794
serial 164794
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Re: Issue with the points.
One more point.
With any modern electronic equipped vehicle, a converted jeep or the little Mrs. 2020 grocery taxi is, when connecting battery jumper cables.
Connect the positive jumper first. Then connect the negative jumper.
And definitely do not get the cables reversed !!
That is instant death !
And very expensive.
With any modern electronic equipped vehicle, a converted jeep or the little Mrs. 2020 grocery taxi is, when connecting battery jumper cables.
Connect the positive jumper first. Then connect the negative jumper.
And definitely do not get the cables reversed !!
That is instant death !
And very expensive.
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
- YLG80
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Re: Issue with the points.
Excellent reminder!Wolfman wrote: ↑Wed Sep 09, 2020 5:55 amOne more point.
With any modern electronic equipped vehicle, a converted jeep or the little Mrs. 2020 grocery taxi is, when connecting battery jumper cables.
Connect the positive jumper first. Then connect the negative jumper.
And definitely do not get the cables reversed !!
That is instant death !
And very expensive.
Electronic devices does not like surges and reversed polarity.
And of course do not boost a 6V jeep with electronic devices (regulator, ignition, flasher ...) that does not start with a 12V vehicle.
No problem to do it with another 6V vehicle.
Ford GPW 1943 - Louisville - DoD 12-7-43
serial 164794
serial 164794
- YLG80
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Re: Issue with the points.
Pictures of the changes BEFORE-AFTER (most changes are inside the distributor) I've had to add a ballast resistor because the ignition coil in my engine has a low primary resistance. I wanted to keep the coil.
If you have a coil with R primary > 3 ohms (mine is 1.4 ohms), there is no need for any additional ballast resistor.
The change would then be invisible because you just have to replace the internal distributor plate like shown on the picture. You have to place the magnetic ring, black on the picture, around the camshaft in the distributor
There are two wires only, coming from the red module on the new distributor plate.
One is red and has to be connected to the coil (+) together with the wire coming from the key ignition switch.
The other, black, is simply connected to the coil (-) alone.
You need to check/readjust the timing, once for all.
That's it.
As a precaution, I've just added an O-RING on top of the magnetic ring to avoid any move up of the ring.
The ring position (up-down) is critical in front of the module.
Yves
Ford GPW 1943 - Louisville - DoD 12-7-43
serial 164794
serial 164794
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Re: Issue with the points.
Thank you! that is just what I was looking for!
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