Nice clean work.
Perhaps turning a repop oil can into a reservoir with the removable spout as the fill and a soldered fitting in the base that would clear the oilcan mount...
This way short of an eagle eye spotting the line under the mount the install might be invisible.
V/R W. Winget
Opinion Wanted: Dual Master Cylinder
- W. Winget
- LTC, U.S. Army
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Re: Opinion Wanted: Dual Master Cylinder
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts
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Re: Opinion Wanted: Dual Master Cylinder
I measured one of the golf cart 3/4" bore master cylinders, (actually mounted on an E-ride utility cart at my work). The bolt spacing where it mounts to the frame is 3-1/2" center to center. The pushrod is 5" long. Looks like the plastic reservoir can be reversed if needed, which might make it align with the floor opening better.
I'm going to scrounge one off a scrap cart and try it for fit on my GPW. Will update!
I'm going to scrounge one off a scrap cart and try it for fit on my GPW. Will update!
43 Ford GPW 92098
53 Dunbar Kapple M100
Sold: 61 CJ-5, 41 T207 WC-1 Dodge closed cab pickup
MVPA #8266
USMC Tanker (1811, 1812), 85-93
ASE Automotive Master tech, former Chrysler-Jeep Level 4 Mastertech, CA state EA smog license
53 Dunbar Kapple M100
Sold: 61 CJ-5, 41 T207 WC-1 Dodge closed cab pickup
MVPA #8266
USMC Tanker (1811, 1812), 85-93
ASE Automotive Master tech, former Chrysler-Jeep Level 4 Mastertech, CA state EA smog license
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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- Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2020 1:17 pm
- Location: W Simsbury CT
Re: Opinion Wanted: Dual Master Cylinder
I went with vented Geo Tracker brakes in the front, stock drums in the rear.
I worked up my own measurements and created a bracket similar to the one Herm sells.
I used a Centric 13063010 master cylinder from Rock Auto ($41 new). Fits CJ5 70-77 among others.
This master has that weird boss on the bottom. I read that it was for a stop pin.
Turns out, it was used for a stop light switch in some applications. It can be used as the front brake line port with a brass adapter. I called Centric to confirm it was OK. This allows you to plug the original port, which is really close to the bellhousing. It looks like a custom heatshield will be needed though, or mods to the original.
I used the adjustable proportioning valve and 2 and 10 lb residual valves.
I used a power bleeder to bleed, interestingly, even with 15 psi fluid wasn't flowing. I pumped the brakes a couple times and the fluid came, brakes are solid as a rock. They seem to work great from the limited driving I've done so far.
Top view. Using modified original pushrod, threaded further up rod and will shorten to fit as needed.
Installed a brace from bottom of bracket to crossmember, there is also a tab on the bottom that supports the pedal shaft.
Used rod ends on clutch linkage, they work nice.
In this view you can see the brake lines from the MC entering the proportioning valve at the rear. The rear brake line with 10lb residual valve heads to the rear inside the crossmember. You can see the rear brake adjustment knob and the stop light switch.
Here you can see the rear brake line, and the blocked off front port
rear brake line, clamps not installed yet
here's another view of the valve, a simple bracket attaches it to the spring bracket.
Here's the bottom of the master with the front line coming out
I worked up my own measurements and created a bracket similar to the one Herm sells.
I used a Centric 13063010 master cylinder from Rock Auto ($41 new). Fits CJ5 70-77 among others.
This master has that weird boss on the bottom. I read that it was for a stop pin.
Turns out, it was used for a stop light switch in some applications. It can be used as the front brake line port with a brass adapter. I called Centric to confirm it was OK. This allows you to plug the original port, which is really close to the bellhousing. It looks like a custom heatshield will be needed though, or mods to the original.
I used the adjustable proportioning valve and 2 and 10 lb residual valves.
I used a power bleeder to bleed, interestingly, even with 15 psi fluid wasn't flowing. I pumped the brakes a couple times and the fluid came, brakes are solid as a rock. They seem to work great from the limited driving I've done so far.
Top view. Using modified original pushrod, threaded further up rod and will shorten to fit as needed.
Installed a brace from bottom of bracket to crossmember, there is also a tab on the bottom that supports the pedal shaft.
Used rod ends on clutch linkage, they work nice.
In this view you can see the brake lines from the MC entering the proportioning valve at the rear. The rear brake line with 10lb residual valve heads to the rear inside the crossmember. You can see the rear brake adjustment knob and the stop light switch.
Here you can see the rear brake line, and the blocked off front port
rear brake line, clamps not installed yet
here's another view of the valve, a simple bracket attaches it to the spring bracket.
Here's the bottom of the master with the front line coming out
Last edited by bryanbdp on Mon Aug 24, 2020 5:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
45 MB - W Simsbury CT
Built to drive!
Built to drive!
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
- Posts: 475
- Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2020 1:17 pm
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Re: Opinion Wanted: Dual Master Cylinder
Here's the print I created for the bracket.
45 MB - W Simsbury CT
Built to drive!
Built to drive!
- tamnalan
- G-Lieutenant General
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Re: Opinion Wanted: Dual Master Cylinder
Very nice!
Alan W. Johnson
_______________
MB, 201453, "Lt Bob"
MB, 1942, not stock
M-100, Sep 1951
MB-TD, Mar 2012
Ford 91C, 1939
_______________
MB, 201453, "Lt Bob"
MB, 1942, not stock
M-100, Sep 1951
MB-TD, Mar 2012
Ford 91C, 1939
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