Dualmatics on the Rear

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Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by ndnile » Thu May 17, 2018 8:17 pm

I do drive my MB, but I think I flat tow it more miles than I drive. I like the idea of unlocking all four hubs and not having to think about anything spinning around in the drive train faster than it should as I keep up with traffic on the free way and for me the dual lever dualmatic hubs would look acceptably non-horrid.

I'm hoping the trimmed axles can be purchased and that no machining is required, but that isn't what I'm expecting. Is anyone aware of a write up for doing this conversion?

Thanks, Doug
Doug
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1943 GPW-125334 (Sold)
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by artificer » Fri May 18, 2018 12:15 am

Do some searching that may assist as it has been a topic on here a few times previously.
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by Joe Gopan » Fri May 18, 2018 3:45 am

It can be done, but the Dualmatics or the other make hubs will not take the stress of every day driving. It will cost more than its worth while creating a pile of broken free wheeling hubs.
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by Marty, SoCal » Fri May 18, 2018 10:47 am

Herm the Overdrive Guy used to make full float kits for Dana 44s, he might be able to supply dual splined axles for the Dana 23.
http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/

Dutchman Axles in Idaho has made me custom axles before. They can make them in Chrome Moly or 1541H which are both a lot stronger than stock materiels. They might be a source, also:
https://dutchmanaxles.com/products/cust ... oater.html
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by Marty, SoCal » Fri May 18, 2018 11:06 am

AVM #401 hubs use steel and iron in the drive and driven parts instead of the aluminum used in most other hubs and would hold up better in constant rear axle use.

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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by The Fireman » Fri May 18, 2018 1:06 pm

Yo Doug,

A good number of years ago, I purchased a 1945 CJ2A from Sandy Cone. Sandy has been in the off road axle business for some time. Anyway, the 2A had the floating style axles in it as it is an early one. Sandy made new axles for the 2A so they could use the free wheeling hubs. He had taken the 2A over the Rubicon twice and has made off road axles for different vehicles for a good while. I don't know if he still is in business, but the following is the contact information I had for him:

Sandy Cone
2055 Hanging Tree Lane
Templeton, CA 93465
(805) 239-2663

He is a straight shooter and a great guy. When we were making transportation arrangements for the 2A he suggested that we meet in Woodland, CA as that would save me the drive down to Templeton, a long trip from Oregon. The free wheeling hubs are still on the 2A and it does help towing it around to different events in the area.

Good luck and SF,

Frank
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by JAB » Fri May 18, 2018 5:02 pm

I had my shafts made by http://www.moserengineering.com/
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by ndnile » Fri May 18, 2018 11:56 pm

Wow, thanks to everyone for all the good information. Wonderful collective here.

Thanks, Doug
Doug
Sacramento Area
1943 Willys MB
1943 GPW-125334 (Sold)
1962 M170
1959 Willys Wagon

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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by ndnile » Sat May 19, 2018 1:39 pm

Update on my thoughts here. Ben's statement about the lever-style dualmatics not being robust enough for continuous use has dampened my enthusiasm. To me these are more incognito than the other types I've seen and are the only ones I would've considered.

Thanks again for the inputs. Good stuff.
Doug
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1943 GPW-125334 (Sold)
1962 M170
1959 Willys Wagon

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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by JAB » Sat May 19, 2018 2:16 pm

In that case, another option would be to pull the shafts when you flat tow and cover the bearings with a blank cap. I have two "caps" that I picked up at a junkyard that came off a mail jeep (front axle). It only uses three of the six holes but that's all you need. The gaskets can be replaced with a thin layer of RTV which can be easily scrapped off and re-applied for each transition. The reason I bought the caps is because I saw them right after I returned from dragging a GPW home that I bought sight unseen from north of Fargo to suburban Milwaukee with tinfoil and duct tape over the bearings. I had no idea what condition the rear end was in so I took some old bearings and a hub along, just in case, but I didn't need it. I also removed the front drive flanges and covered those with foil and tape, but since you have the Dual-a-matics on the front that's not an issue for you.
-Jeff

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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by Joe Gopan » Sat May 19, 2018 3:19 pm

Not good to pull the shafts to tow, the GO-90 will be free to flow out into the wheel bearing grease. The inner axle seals depend on the shafts to keep the GO in the differential.
I have witnessed quite a few split open free wheeling hubs of all brands from failure while the front axles had more traction than the rears.
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by lt.luke » Sat May 19, 2018 4:01 pm

Why not buy a trailer and do it right? Way less wear on all involved Jeep components.


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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by JAB » Sat May 19, 2018 4:46 pm

Ben Dover wrote:
Sat May 19, 2018 3:19 pm
Not good to pull the shafts to tow, the GO-90 will be free to flow out into the wheel bearing grease. The inner axle seals depend on the shafts to keep the GO in the differential.
.............
Good point. In the case I mentioned above I just wanted to get it home safely and didn't have a trailer at that time. Not knowing the condition of the differentials made it an easy call as once it got home everything got rebuilt anyway. All I needed on that trip was 8 good wheel bearings.
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by JIMN » Sun May 20, 2018 10:09 am

I agree with Luke. Although you can do hubs if you do it right, the investment in a trailer solves all problems and you can use it for all sorts of other thing that will help justify your spend.
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Re: Dualmatics on the Rear

Post by lt.luke » Sun May 20, 2018 10:28 am

Most of these hubs are obsolete, so I would buy at least 3 sets, so I have a spare. I’d assume that was $300 or more. Custom axles....what....$200-300 for a pair? A GOOD tow bar...another 200-300.... that’s 700-900....

I’m guessing that you can judiciously shop and spend under $2k on a used 16’ flat cargo trailer.




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