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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:17 am
by maeserik
More info about the FRAM

some references :

I hope you could use this !


Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:37 pm
by Bob Shaw
I'm thinking this is not available in the US market

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:32 am
by Mike Soltis
I used the Napa Gold part # 2036 with a sponge toilet gasket & it works great. I think the filter is for a Subaru if I remember correctly Mike

K&N filter

Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:41 am
by maurywhurt
I used a K&N E-2190, which is a replacement filter for a 1978-83 Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon. They're available from many sources, including ... 389&sr=8-1

The two rings are 3/4" thick sponge rubber toilet cushion rings. When the assembly is inserted into the housing and the cup is clamped down, the rubber rings compress slightly to form a tight seal between the housing and filter. Here's a link to the rings on, but they might available at Lowe's or Home Depot as well: ... 456&sr=8-1




Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:06 am
by Ogstad
I have been using the same setup as above for two years and I have never overheated.

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:49 pm
by NB1943

I just returned from the MVPA convention in Portland and saw something that might interst you... Richard Sanders (from Australia) and a dry filter replacement for the oil bath air cleaner. The filer is one that you can clean (that's cheaper than oil and you don't have to replace it). Also, the sealing ring is made from a special military grade urathane plastic that forms a perfect seal. He also makes several other parts (pulleys, transfer case bolts, etc) that are far superior to most anything else you can put into your Jeep. It costs a bit more, but its made from top-quality materials. (Not cheap stuff) It's well worth it and will last. You can e-mail him at or visit his website at

Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:23 pm
by David V
I've also been running a dry paper-type filter for the last 2 years with no over-heating problems. No carb problems either. Mixture is fine.

Maybe if I lived in a really dusty area I would opt for the oil bath but frankly there is no dust problem here. I just checked out the local car super market and there was a filter that fitted perfectly. So I bought a couple. It's since dissappeared from the shelves...

With all the bikes I've owned and fitted K&N's to, I've always had to enrich the mixture (and sometimes rejet) so it's worth checking but of course we are talking optimum performance here. Not jeep...

When I bought my jeep it had no filter at all (not even the crossover tube) and had been running that way for many years.


Re: Dry filter instead of oil bath

Posted: Mon May 06, 2019 2:59 am
by wickedwillys45
Facebook g503 has taken over this forum it seems.

This is well worth the bump though.


Re: Dry filter instead of oil bath

Posted: Mon May 06, 2019 5:17 am
by W. Winget
"Maybe if I lived in a really dusty area I would opt for the oil bath but frankly there is no dust problem here." Bad Idea....

On topic, especially for those that think OEM is always best:
How many miles does the average automobile engine live today VS one designed in the 30's? (Hint: I'm at 390,000 on my '97 Mercury)
Why does the US Army and every nation (maybe not Russia) use dry filter elements, especially in the desert environment if an oil bath is so efficient? (Hint: they don't, and it's not)
The answer to the above indicates why it's a good idea to upgrade if you actually DO drive and use your vehicle other than for points on a judging stand and want the engine to last longer between rebuilds. Cleanliness adds to longevity. Aircleaner tech wasn't invented till after WWI, it was 'new' tech less than 20 years later when the Jeep was assembled.

My 1918 Standard B Type I Liberty truck did not have an aircleaner, and it was thought out by an extensive crowd of engineers to provide the best and most reliable vehicle the Army could purchase. Less than one year later, the Type II Liberty mentions one in a parts manual but there are no illustrations. Only the Society Of Automotive Engineer concepts and patents for different types of filters appear in 1919-1921 publications.

As to overheating, this is a strange (improbable) phenomenon, as starvation of air results in a rich carb mixture, which would run cooler than a lean mixture, so until the black smoke comes out the tailpipe from the filter being too clogged, you won't overheat the engine, but it may gum up.
early 70's AMC Pacers with the 258 engines were prone to this, for some reason they piped the PVC to the aircleaner in such a fashion it would be full of soot and oil and gum up on the two different Mom's I assisted at times on the side of the road. I pulled the filter elements in both cases and they drove home on their own

Oil bath means the dirt is forced toward the bottom of the filter housing, hoping heavier elements in the air are forced by the speed of the intake vacuum to impact the oil at the bottom as it turns upward toward the carb. Expanded metal is added to slow smaller lufted material in hopes it will not enter the airstream and wind up in the carb. As the oil gets dirty, and fills with garbage, it creates more volume in the reservoir, eventually restricting airflow and you either do maintenance or choke off the air supply as the oil is now above the maximum indicated line.
Not the best concept,hoping for gravity, velocity and chance to catch bad things.

Paper Filter elements that allow air to move through the medium were not as refined as they are now (late 50's onward) and would have been used if they were available during wartime production.

Bottom line, if you use your vehicle it's a smart upgrade which won't be seen unless a judge wants to check your filter oil level.
V/R W. Winget

Re: Dry filter instead of oil bath

Posted: Mon May 06, 2019 5:41 am
by Joe Gopan
Been servicing 4 Cyl Jeeps, Civilian and Military Vehicles, Industrial engines and construct machinery with Oil Bath Filters for over 6 decades with no wear or oerating problems. The 4 Cylinder Jeep Engines I have reconditioned over those years have no problem reaching 50,000+ miles between overhauls. The key to longevity is scheduled maintenance. Today's engine lubes are a better match of oil chemistry and engine metallurgy, except that the 4 Cyl Jeep engines are still "old school".

Re: Dry filter instead of oil bath

Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2019 11:57 pm
by robymn
I use k&n filter also. I like it because it is washable and reusable.

Re: Dry filter instead of oil bath

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 2:36 am
by artificer
Frankly why bother.
The oil bath works great & is very in-expensive to maintain.
JEEP, VW, LANDROVER etc. used with no problems.

Re: Dry filter instead of oil bath

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 3:48 pm
by Marty, SoCal
Wow, this is digging up an old thread! :lol:

The paper elements are a positive filter, meaning the air has to go through the element with tiny passages, so the air is 100% filtered. They will still filter to the size of the pores if a little water passes through them like while fording. Same cannot be said for the oil bath. If you ever doo actually plug one, you can tap the dirt out enough to get the breathing back again. M-60 and M1A1 tanks use paper elements. We cleaned them often in the desert. Actually wrote the weight on them when new, and had to clean them to within a certain percentage , weighed with a fish scale.

K&N elements are not as efficient in cleaning the air of dirt as a standard modern paper element. The "cheesecloth" used as an element has larger pores and relies on the oil coating to actually catch dirt particles, much like the oil bath. They become more efficient at trapping dirt the dirtier they get, but then their air flow advantage goes away. (Note the instructions that say not to clean it for something like 50K miles). I've had many customers with modern jeeps that have ran them then found dirt in the intake manifold and air cleaner tubes after running off-road on dusty desert trails. I've found 1/8" of dust inside a 4.0l intake manifold on one guy's engine. Lost compression in two cylinders with only 25K miles on it. Also, If you hit a deep puddle and a little water gets into it, it carries more dirt into the engine because the pores are larger than the paper element. Improper cleaning where compressed air or high water flows are used, opens up the pores in the cheesecloth, even more, making the problem worse.

Oil bath filters generally work best only at one air flow speed. Also, the weight of the oil used effects operation. Water getting into the housing can cause the oil to rise and get sucked into the engine, (oily dirt makes a nice lapping compound). Also, odd angles makes the filter not work properly, too.

Re: Dry filter instead of oil bath

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:32 pm
by Joe Gopan
My experience servicing Jeeps owned by individuals is that the Oil Bath Filter rarely, if ever gets attention resulting in 1/4" of sludge, or rust holes in the cup if accumulated moisture (just a few drops is all it takes) is not removed.

Re: Dry filter instead of oil bath

Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 6:10 am
by Wolfman
Don't tell anyone but,
Ron is selling a dry air filter for your jeep.