Dry filter instead of oil bath

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW modifications, sugestions, and ideas, official MWO's and unofficial WWII field mods NO EBAY or COMMERCIAL SALES.
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DocUwe
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Dry filter instead of oil bath

Post by DocUwe » Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:38 am

What do you think about building in a dry air filter like K&N or others? Is this a danger for the motor because of overheating?
Thank you!
Uwe
ImageImage FORD GPW 80468, Day Of Delivery: 11-20-42, built in the FORD plants in Dallas/Tx

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Bob N
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Post by Bob N » Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:58 am

I've been using the dry filter for more than 20 years.
http://www.42fordgpw.com/mods2.html
Others have come up with alternate ways to use a dry filter by using toilet "doughnuts", sort of a rubber gasket.
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Post by lowenuf » Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:35 pm

i have the K&N part number for the dry filter that fits the oil bath Oakes style cleaner..the number is at home..i can get it tmorrow if you want it..low

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Post by DocUwe » Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:54 pm

a friend of mine (from Switzerland) did this in an original oil filter housing:
Image

Again I mention that I have fear to overheat the engine without an oilbath filter :roll:
ImageImage FORD GPW 80468, Day Of Delivery: 11-20-42, built in the FORD plants in Dallas/Tx

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Post by maeserik » Wed Jun 04, 2008 12:58 am

This is mine sollution, the M38 filter housing has the same inside diameter

http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... light=fram

I use FRAM 2663A, fits nicely into the housing and has big capacity and good airflow. Eventualy you need a ring on the bottumpan to tighten the filter.

good luck

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Post by rgus » Wed Jun 04, 2008 2:07 am

I for one would welcome a way to replace the oil bath with a good filter and still not change the originality.

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Post by maeserik » Wed Jun 04, 2008 4:02 am

The FRAM 2663A filter just fits in the filterhousing, only remove the original filterunit, and replace it by the new one. Just put a ring or circle under the cartridge on the bottem ( max 3 - 0.11 inch ).

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Bob Shaw
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Post by Bob Shaw » Sun Jun 15, 2008 5:19 pm

2663A is not listed on the Fram websight,and I have not had any luck finding one at any auto parts stores.
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Post by Bob Shaw » Sun Jun 15, 2008 5:20 pm

lowenuf,

Could you provide the K&N number?
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Post by Chuck Lutz » Sun Jun 15, 2008 6:14 pm

Uwe....why do you feel you need to replace the oil bath filter?
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Post by Ben Dover » Sun Jun 15, 2008 6:18 pm

The Army used the Oil Bath for a reason, normal collector use is no way as harsh as the conditions the Oil bath is designed to function in. What is the reason that collectors prefer dry elements?
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Post by Chuck Lutz » Sun Jun 15, 2008 7:25 pm

Ben.....because we have been conditioned to respond to:

"NEW AND IMPROVED"

"MODERN TECHNOLOGY"

"IT'S BETTER"

Most of the time it is Madison Avenue sales talk....that's why I asked if Uwe was driving in some particularly harsh conditions that may warrant some new, improved modern technology that is better.....
Chuck Lutz

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Post by Ben Dover » Sun Jun 15, 2008 7:51 pm

I wonder what Sgt Half Mast, Connie Rod, and Joe Dope would say?
Why give $250 for a genuine WWII Oil Bath Air Cleaner just to stuff paper in it?
I'll stick with my Oil Bath, it catches dust, much the same way flypaper catches flys, Oil is still cheaper than those paper gimmicks.
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Post by Mike Seymour » Sun Jun 15, 2008 8:13 pm

Guys, The reason we put this modification board here is to keep the mods off the tech board and at the same time provide a place for modification discussion. If you don't approve of mods, don't read this board.... :wink:
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Post by Bob N » Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:59 am

Well, since it was asked. Oil now costs $138/brl so it's cheaper! :lol:
Seriously the WW2 solution for cold weather (below zero) driving is to run without oil in the filter. That didn't seem all that wise to me so I bought into the dry filter. It works and is more efficient.

How many use silicone break fluid "because it won't eat the paint"? What does real OD point do with an oil spill? So removing the oil bath filters' oil is just one more improvement. :lol:
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