1943 MB 213301
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Paul,great to see your progress Trailer receptacle all ready to go...nice new gasket on the air cleaner...
it looks like you made a change of radiator hose length out of the water pump from a few pics back.Agree that the shorty goes just where you now have it.Thanks for putting these pics up,many of us are really enjoying seeing your Willys coming back on the road.
it looks like you made a change of radiator hose length out of the water pump from a few pics back.Agree that the shorty goes just where you now have it.Thanks for putting these pics up,many of us are really enjoying seeing your Willys coming back on the road.
Ralph
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Thanks guys!
Ralph, you have good eyes. I was having problems getting the alignment right with the hoses and steel pipe setup. I recently switched from what I think was a CJ radiator I’ve used since this jeep was last running to an MB radiator. So wanted to get this right.
I think I mistakenly swapped the short and long pieces on the top though when I swapped radiators (the below photo without the radiator is correct?), seen a few factory photos with the long on the water neck and the short on the radiator. Thoughts? Will have to look into this some more! Certainly doesn’t make a difference functionally, but...
Here’s the MB radiator testing it in place a while ago before I cleaned it up (have an NOS cap for it as well).
Looking back through these posts, also realized the gas tank strap bolts are reversed based on photos from the TM. Always something!
Ralph, you have good eyes. I was having problems getting the alignment right with the hoses and steel pipe setup. I recently switched from what I think was a CJ radiator I’ve used since this jeep was last running to an MB radiator. So wanted to get this right.
I think I mistakenly swapped the short and long pieces on the top though when I swapped radiators (the below photo without the radiator is correct?), seen a few factory photos with the long on the water neck and the short on the radiator. Thoughts? Will have to look into this some more! Certainly doesn’t make a difference functionally, but...
Here’s the MB radiator testing it in place a while ago before I cleaned it up (have an NOS cap for it as well).
Looking back through these posts, also realized the gas tank strap bolts are reversed based on photos from the TM. Always something!
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Paul I had swapped those hoses & pipes till I was worn out two or three times.Between the seeps and the fit I was never certain about it.At one point I surveyed a lot of pics on that water pump hose.Seemed like the shorty there provided a slightly better A of A toward the lower(MB) radiator casting.Also I recall long-time member Bill-in the shop- posting the hose dimensions and their placements.A fit either way can be made,meant no criticism I was just happy to be done with that section. Wonderful work there!
Ralph
- Mark Tombleson
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Beers wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2017 7:22 pmHave been working on a lot of small components around the engine compartment and fuel system.
Here’s a few photos of the gas tank. Overall it was in good shape, though it had a few pin holes. This is a large mouth tank, but without the indent on the front RH that came sometime later in mid to late ‘43 I believe.
I used the sealer from Caswell plating. It’s one of the few mainstream tank sealers that is a two-part epoxy. It’s a real solid product, once it cures, I think you could actually remove the sheet metal and just use the sealer as the tank!
I spent a few more dollars to get the sealer dyed in gray, to make it easier to both coat the tank and spot any defects later (it normally is clear with a slight amber hint). I used about 70-80% in the main tank opening, rotated the tank for about 20 minutes, and then used the remainder in the fuel sending unit opening. Then kept rotating the tank, about 45-50 minutes total.
A couple photos after:
Added the anti-squeak strips
The stone guards and rubber seals
Edited: to add the tank and stone guard photos
Just saw this so I will comment... the first known contract MB-NOM-12 is as follows
Frame: MB 206534........Body: 2030........Est.DoD: Jan-Feb 1943.......S.N. N/A.........................Tag No. N/A
MB contracts for the standard jeep may be later but the dent was in the gas tank of Navy contract MB-206534.
MB-NAVY-MZ-1 352625 - 07/20/44 (DOD est.)
U.S.N. 133818
2nd place Restored Class 2008 Portland Convention
MVPA Hall of Fame - 2013
U.S.N. 133818
2nd place Restored Class 2008 Portland Convention
MVPA Hall of Fame - 2013
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Hey Mark,
I remember this from a couple years back, I had to dig up that thread.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=239388&p=1402482&hi ... 9#p1402482
Did anyone ever pin down the date for the tanks with the dent being installed on the standard MB? Thinking that the Navy contract required the dent as early as MB-206534 to accommodate the generator, and then at a later date that style tank just became standard for all MB’s...
I remember this from a couple years back, I had to dig up that thread.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=239388&p=1402482&hi ... 9#p1402482
Did anyone ever pin down the date for the tanks with the dent being installed on the standard MB? Thinking that the Navy contract required the dent as early as MB-206534 to accommodate the generator, and then at a later date that style tank just became standard for all MB’s...
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43
- Mark Tombleson
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
I had forgotten all about the large mouth tank with and without the dent appearing to have the same part number.
I see we need to research this further...
Now if I can only remember long enough to do something,
I see we need to research this further...
Now if I can only remember long enough to do something,
MB-NAVY-MZ-1 352625 - 07/20/44 (DOD est.)
U.S.N. 133818
2nd place Restored Class 2008 Portland Convention
MVPA Hall of Fame - 2013
U.S.N. 133818
2nd place Restored Class 2008 Portland Convention
MVPA Hall of Fame - 2013
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Haven’t posted an update in a long time. An elbow injury took me away from working on the MB for a while, but I focused on smaller projects and now back working on finishing up the larger pieces. Here are a few photos, I’ll include some more of the individual pieces later. Did replace the repro headlights in the first two pictures with original Seelites shown in the third photo (thanks Walter!).
Currently working on the hood, using an angle grinder to take off the rubberized undercoating that Bubba put on (I had the top of the hood sandblasted, but didn’t have the bottom as I think the blasting would have warped it too much in removing the undercoating).
Currently working on the hood, using an angle grinder to take off the rubberized undercoating that Bubba put on (I had the top of the hood sandblasted, but didn’t have the bottom as I think the blasting would have warped it too much in removing the undercoating).
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43
- zepher11
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Looks really nice. Good to hear you are back at it.
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Paul,
She looks as good as I expected...best wishes for you to mend all the way.See-Lites look great as does the zippered seats.Been waiting patiently...
She looks as good as I expected...best wishes for you to mend all the way.See-Lites look great as does the zippered seats.Been waiting patiently...
Ralph
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Thanks Zeph and Ralph! It’s good to get rolling on it again, and post some photos. Only a few major pieces left (and a whole bunch of minor ones)!
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Just posting photos of some of the rebuild work. When I got this jeep, it had a 12 volt system installed, and the MZ-4113 starter had run on this for years. Converting back to 6 volt, the starter would barely turn over, as expected (even running a ground cable straight from the battery to the starter mounting bolt). Fortunately, you can still get rebuild kits a plenty, including NOS. Now it runs great, night and day.
Starter awaiting disassembly, with the rebuild kit, which includes the basic hardware, jumpers, and the four field coils MZ-1007-1010).
The condition of the brushes, as expected - totally shot.
The armature wasn’t in great shape either, but I cleaned this up with some emory cloth.
Starter awaiting disassembly, with the rebuild kit, which includes the basic hardware, jumpers, and the four field coils MZ-1007-1010).
The condition of the brushes, as expected - totally shot.
The armature wasn’t in great shape either, but I cleaned this up with some emory cloth.
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
The pole piece retaining screws can get wedged in pretty tight. Finally had to resort to using an easy out.
The new pole piece screws in the NOS rebuild kit. Looks like cadmium plated, tough to get done nowadays.
And an NOS end piece replacement. I went with this for function, even though it’s not 100% correct as it is missing the sliding cover for adding oil and has the extra set of mounting holes.
The new pole piece screws in the NOS rebuild kit. Looks like cadmium plated, tough to get done nowadays.
And an NOS end piece replacement. I went with this for function, even though it’s not 100% correct as it is missing the sliding cover for adding oil and has the extra set of mounting holes.
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Soldering the jumpers and brushes on the new field coils. Had to use a small torch as my soldering iron wouldn’t get hot enough.
Final product. Note the “X-2” stamping just right of the pole screw, don’t know what that’s a reference to (case is also stamped with the standard “PS 79” on the pinion housing). After this picture, I did cover the pole screws with a final coat of black paint based on factory photos.
It now turns over really nice on the six volt battery. One piece I didn’t replace was the bendix assembly, and every once in a while this will fail to activate so may go back in and replace it.
On a side note, here’s an older thread by wjohn that is a great overview to rebuild these. As long as you have a heat source to solder the jumpers it’s a fairly easy project.
viewtopic.php?t=233149
TM 9-1825B is also really handy for this if you can get a copy, here’s a link for online (great for all the Autolite electrical pieces).
http://radionerds.com/images/b/b2/TM_9-1825B_1944.pdf
Final product. Note the “X-2” stamping just right of the pole screw, don’t know what that’s a reference to (case is also stamped with the standard “PS 79” on the pinion housing). After this picture, I did cover the pole screws with a final coat of black paint based on factory photos.
It now turns over really nice on the six volt battery. One piece I didn’t replace was the bendix assembly, and every once in a while this will fail to activate so may go back in and replace it.
On a side note, here’s an older thread by wjohn that is a great overview to rebuild these. As long as you have a heat source to solder the jumpers it’s a fairly easy project.
viewtopic.php?t=233149
TM 9-1825B is also really handy for this if you can get a copy, here’s a link for online (great for all the Autolite electrical pieces).
http://radionerds.com/images/b/b2/TM_9-1825B_1944.pdf
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Looking really good Beers, i noticed that you have the thicker seat cushion. Ive just put one on mine, passenger side though, for my good lady. (it stops the moaning of how uncomfortable she feels).
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Re: 1943 MB 213301
Nice work at the bench Paul...I had to use a hand impact tool on my pole screws...gonna do the gennie maybe?
That X2 is maybe a rebuilder's collating mark...? or maybe a play on the AL code?....tag on mine was 1X
Good to see the shop open anyway.
That X2 is maybe a rebuilder's collating mark...? or maybe a play on the AL code?....tag on mine was 1X
Good to see the shop open anyway.
Ralph
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