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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 8:55 am
by lkgindy
The clips are available at Auto Zone in the “Help” section where they sell door window crank handles and the like. They are in a bubble pack and there are various sizes in each package. You will have to buy 2 packages to get enough to replace all the clips and each package has both the right and left side type. I completed a new rear hatch lid this past summer using these clips.

Larry

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 1:03 pm
by dilvoy
lkgindy wrote:
Sat Jan 13, 2018 8:55 am
The clips are available at Auto Zone in the “Help” section where they sell door window crank handles and the like. They are in a bubble pack and there are various sizes in each package. You will have to buy 2 packages to get enough to replace all the clips and each package has both the right and left side type. I completed a new rear hatch lid this past summer using these clips.

Larry
That's good info Larry. I'm going to go and get some today!

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 12:00 pm
by dilvoy
RockHillWill wrote:
Fri Jan 12, 2018 5:38 am
Thanks, Jason. I did know that the hatch opens both ways, and I had a hard time explaining that to the guys at the local armory motor pool. They had never worked on a TOW missile carrier and were giving me some grief over it. What I was actually saying about the hatch was that the latch handle had a 'catch' in it about halfway thru the movement, and it would not release latches at either side to position themselves to let the hatch close. Once it was closed, it would allow the hatch to open, but then again, it would not close. The hatch looks like it had been dropped on a sharp object right in the middle at some point in time and the sheet metal 'tunnels' that the operating rods go thru were collapsed. I disassembled the rods and straightened out the tunnels and that did not correct the problem, so I started looking at the latch, and short of removing the spot welds, I decided that based not only on the non-functioning aspect, but the poor appearance of the latch, I just bought another one. I am waiting for that latch to arrive from HPGUY, but they are waiting to ship because he was the only vendor that I could locate that had the retaining clips, and he has to order them from AMG. I tried to source these clips elsewhere, but was unable to do so.

I can see in a couple of the photos that part of the rear most hatch latch has a bent piece. It is the little flat metal piece that slides when the latch is operated. That little piece is supposed to be bent at a ninety degree angle at it's rearmost point and it probably got bend when the hatch was being handled. That could be the hitch in it's operation. The actual part that shows being bent would be well out of it's sliding encasement half way through thge operation, but maybe the rest of it is twisted. The actual operating handle is hardened steel and if that is bent, I think it's pretty much impossible to get it back to shape.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:48 pm
by RockHillWill
A little bit more done this weekend. Wife is being of great help on this. Got the wires and connectors figured out for the wiper motor and installed with a new 'grommet' per the TM's. Took the windshield back off prior to that and siliconed the windshield items per George's suggestion. Taped both sides of the 'gap', ran the silicone, wiped it smooth , then removed the tape. It came out very nice. Aligned the doors, also per George's suggestion (Thanks!), and have ordered shims for both the windshield hinges and the roof/turret. Water jet guy called and is cutting the roof insulation today, will let it dry until the weekend, then install. I found the rear latch clips in the help section of an Advance store and have included pictures to show the part number. As was mentioned, I had to buy two sets at $6 ea. to get what I needed, but it looks appropriate.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:40 pm
by RockHillWill
Wife and I got the roof interior scraped clean, and installed the cab liner from dB Engineering in Texas ($155 for 52" x 120"). We were extremely happy using the adhesive that they recommended. You could tell right away that it was going to stick very good. I made pattern drawings for the five large pieces and had them cut out on the water jet, but cut the smaller pieces inside the turret on a band saw with a wood cutting blade and dressed them up on a belt sander will an 80 grit belt. I was impressed with how nice and precise those machines worked on this foam. Expect to install the room by the end of the week. We got the hatch latch situation handled and was happy with the fit and operation.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:53 pm
by RockHillWill
We have been gathering up the parts and hardware to install the airlift bumper, hopefully next week we can start on it. I noticed a 'situation' when gathering the hardware according to the TM's. It calls for 1/2" bolts to be used to mounts the pintle extension, but the pintle extension itself has holes large enough to use 5/8" bolts. So does the main bumper tube, but the 'L' shaped bracket right behind it has slots that will only accommodate 1/2" bolts. I plan on milling the slots in the "L" shaped bracket out to accommodate the larger 5/8" hardware, because we will be mounting the Rhino spare tire bracket and tire, and pull an M1102 trailer.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:17 pm
by RockHillWill
Went back to work on the radio 'stuff'. This is slow for me as I am not skilled electrically, but it got much clearer once I got the switch from JuanPrado. I was able to figure out how I was going to do all this without having a thrash if I wanted to take the radio shelves out and expose the engine cover as it was no longer feasible to simply tilt the shelving out of the way. I did not want to run the extra #8 gauge wire, nor another wire from the batteries to have the 12v available for my accessories. The switch from Juan made this all easier in my mind. First, I dis-assembled the switch box and re-indexed the position of both the 'battery' and the 'accessory' connectors that were in the box to allow for smoother looking cable connections. Then I ohmed the wires in the attached cable marked 'adptr pwr' and cut the cable to expose and connect 24v to the nearby converter box. This lets me disconnect only the 'accessory' cable if I want to remove the top tray and expose the wiring on the bottom tray, or remove only the battery' cable to remove the entire radio shelving set. I anticipate making an out-of-site bracket to connect the phone, CB, 2 meter, GPS and the back up camera to power, and operate them with more visible switches.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 8:37 pm
by Action
are you going to install the roof fully assembled? I did mine one piece at a time to the body, and it went very smooth.

Jason

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:17 pm
by JuanPrado
Very nice & clean work on your project!

Thanks for the plug on the switch box :D

I had the same question on the pintle extension on the bolt size. I researched the tm for one of the shelters that can go on the shelter carrier hmmwv and found that the bolts call for 1/2 on the pintle extension. I think it was made with slop in those tubes so it can be adjusted slightly depending on the shelter. The tm calls for 2 rectangular spacer plates on the outside of the pintle extension that both bolts go through. They are unobtaiumum as no one I could find had them. They are simple rectangular steel maybe 3/8 thick with holes drilled. I believe the holes are 1/2 and this is where they help draw the pintle extension tight and flush to the bumper. Once bolted up, there is no movement.

Other fyi is that if you are going to also use a tire carrier at the same , you will have to come up with a custom solution to keep the tire carrier arm fixed as the bump stop and pin lock plate will not fit on the airlift bumper as it uses the holes the extension is now using. I used an L bracket and taped the extension and used 2 bolts to keep it rigid. There are pictures on my thread on steel soldiers.

Other fyi is that the 45* plate to mount the trailer harness is ridiculously over priced at the dealers for $75 :shock: . Easier just to make your own and it is behind the extension so out of sight and you have plenty of room to improvise. Mine is 90* and works just fine. I could not justify the price as this should be a $20 part imho.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 12:42 am
by dilvoy
Wow, you are sure moving along quickly. I solved the heavy radio shelf and engine cover access problem on one Humvee by making a sliding radio shelf setup.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:30 am
by RockHillWill
Jason: I will be installing the top as you did, one piece at a time. I have already removed the items that mount to the turret and the vertical side/shoulder harness items. I have positioned the windshield, loosened the forward tubular connector 'saddles' and acquired a selection of shims, and removed and cleaned the threads on the studs and reconditioned the rubber bumper pads. A few friends that helped me move it to the shop will also help with the installation.

Juan: You have been most helpful previously, but this item really sparked some enthusiasm regarding the wiring of the cable on the radio shelf. Edoguy supplied a beautiful set of communication hardware, and this switchbox was the icing on the cake. With the hole size being close to 11/16" in both the pintle extension and the rear edge of the bumper, I will give some more consideration to using the 5/8" bolts. I agree with the cost of the trailer connector and will make mine at 90 degrees as well. Thanks for the tip on the spare tire positioner. I had not run across that issue yet. I made a drawing of the pintle extension spacers and had them made from 1/4" steel as I was unable to look at any originals.

George: I appreciate your comment, but it sure seems to me to be taking a long time. I sure am spending a long time in the TM's. I wish I had thought about a sliding arrangement, that seems like a pretty smart idea.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:51 am
by 86humv
RockHillWill wrote:
Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:30 am
Jason: I will be installing the top as you did, one piece at a time. I have already removed the items that mount to the turret and the vertical side/shoulder harness items. I have positioned the windshield, loosened the forward tubular connector 'saddles' and acquired a selection of shims, and removed and cleaned the threads on the studs and reconditioned the rubber bumper pads. A few friends that helped me move it to the shop will also help with the installation.

Juan: You have been most helpful previously, but this item really sparked some enthusiasm regarding the wiring of the cable on the radio shelf. Edoguy supplied a beautiful set of communication hardware, and this switchbox was the icing on the cake. With the hole size being close to 11/16" in both the pintle extension and the rear edge of the bumper, I will give some more consideration to using the 5/8" bolts. I agree with the cost of the trailer connector and will make mine at 90 degrees as well. Thanks for the tip on the spare tire positioner. I had not run across that issue yet. I made a drawing of the pintle extension spacers and had them made from 1/4" steel as I was unable to look at any originals.

George: I appreciate your comment, but it sure seems to me to be taking a long time. I sure am spending a long time in the TM's. I wish I had thought about a sliding arrangement, that seems like a pretty smart idea.
Pintle ext :
Bolts are 6" long...top of head to thread.... paper shows: B1821BH050C575N ,4 ea. [ 5 3/4" ]
Bolt holes on bumper and 2 ea. plates will only accept 1/2" bolts....I tried 9/16th bolts...no-go.
Plates are .180 thick 2ea.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:54 am
by 86humv
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 3:03 pm
by RockHillWill
Way cool stuff, guys. I will take all this as good advice and stick with the 1/2" bolts, as I already had them acquired. Thanks for taking the time to share that info.

Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 7:05 pm
by RockHillWill
a few more pics of some progress this week. A few of my 'Redneck' friends brought over one of their own toys and helped me with mine. We took it off the shop table and turned it over. Then we stuck a 2 x 4 under the turret and picked it up and lowered it onto the truck, guiding the (5) fasteners in as we went. After aligning the side posts, I inserted the bolts in the windshield brackets, tightened them all and moved it into the sunshine. Doors are next.