Converting M998 to an M1026
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
So, I guess you will not be using the safety pin when your tire carrier is in the closed position? I didn't see a place for that.
Jason
Jason
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
When using the pintle extension, it was pointed out to me that the bracket that uses that pin is not used. As advised by JuanPrado, I welded a confining bar to the pintle extension and raise the unit until it is behind that bar, then lower it behind that. The turnbuckle holds the lift in position and it has a locknut to keep it from spinning. I am satisfied with that approach. Thanks for noticing.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
Yeah, I have a Rhino on my bumper. I figured they designed the safety pin hole for a reason.RockHillWill wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2018 8:45 amWhen using the pintle extension, it was pointed out to me that the bracket that uses that pin is not used. As advised by JuanPrado, I welded a confining bar to the pintle extension and raise the unit until it is behind that bar, then lower it behind that. The turnbuckle holds the lift in position and it has a locknut to keep it from spinning. I am satisfied with that approach. Thanks for noticing.
Jason
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
Yes, But the pintle extension and the tire carrier are not OE together. The weight of the tire on the arm cranked all the way down with the ratchet resting on the bumper and the extension keeps it rigid. The L bracket keeps it snug. You can insert a pin with this arrangement and it just catches the extension edge for extra piece of mind. The ratchet would have to get loose and the arm would have to jump over the width of the L bracket. Possible but not on today's plan
IT is pretty solid as I have maybe a 1000 miles city/highway at this point with no movement. Actually got the idea here on several g503 write ups.
IT is pretty solid as I have maybe a 1000 miles city/highway at this point with no movement. Actually got the idea here on several g503 write ups.
- FKAM
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
Will,
Just found your Thread. Great project and excellent work. Wish I had your fabrication setup and skills. You've given me some ideas I plan to steal. I've been collecting parts for a hardtop installation for a while, but still lack the hard top itself. I live too far from sources. I'll be watching and takin notes!
Just found your Thread. Great project and excellent work. Wish I had your fabrication setup and skills. You've given me some ideas I plan to steal. I've been collecting parts for a hardtop installation for a while, but still lack the hard top itself. I live too far from sources. I'll be watching and takin notes!
AoUS Retired
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
A few more small items got accomplished around working on the aggravating alternator issue. Got the Pioneer tool kit painted and test fit for installation and fabricated the angled trailer tire wiring cable mount. In the interior, I made a switch panel for the 12v items overhead between the turret ring forward mounting tubes. Made mount for the M23 cradle behind passenger seat and made a bracket for the support tube to go behind the drivers seat. These are clearly not original, but they fit existing contours in the plywood flooring. Made a pair of fan mounts, with the drivers side mounted above the horizontal support bar and the passengers fan mounted below the support bar so that I could maintain a clear visual path to the right side rear view mirror. Much of the bracket work done, but little actual wiring done at this time. I am making a tubular bracket with bends at both ends to run the wiring from the radio shelves to the upper control panel. The wooden bracket was made to keep the cables from the forward battery from shorting out as I had to separate the two batteries to charge them with separate battery chargers.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
Hadn't got a lot done lately as have been tied up with the alternator issue that I have resolved as far as identifying the problem. Have installed a short term repair as I have a large metal shaping event that I am hosting and have to get some other details dealt with and the Humvee out of the shop.
I ran the VIC3 rear cables under the floor boards, as the cables were just a little too short to run around the perimeter of the roof. Fabricated a transfer tube to hide the wires that will be used for the overhead switch panel. Made an adaptor for the M23(?) cradle. I was unable to locate or figure out what I needed, so I fabricated one to hold the gunner guard plate. Made a holder for the upright pintle adaptor to fit at the rear of the drivers seat that utilizes the hole for the 2-man cargo divider bracket and an existing notch in the floorboard. It does NOT interfere with driving or the rear seat occupant.
I ran the VIC3 rear cables under the floor boards, as the cables were just a little too short to run around the perimeter of the roof. Fabricated a transfer tube to hide the wires that will be used for the overhead switch panel. Made an adaptor for the M23(?) cradle. I was unable to locate or figure out what I needed, so I fabricated one to hold the gunner guard plate. Made a holder for the upright pintle adaptor to fit at the rear of the drivers seat that utilizes the hole for the 2-man cargo divider bracket and an existing notch in the floorboard. It does NOT interfere with driving or the rear seat occupant.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
I take it the monitor is for a back up camera? If so, which brand did you go with?
HMMWV. Always looking for an APC.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
Been busy with the yearly metal shaping event, but did manage to shorten the 2-man cargo divider to a 4-man one.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
It's a little less busy around here after cleaning up the lake debris, fences and pastures after very hard two days of rain. Have mounted the .50 cal cradle on the interior, the .50 cal and barrel (NOT real) in place of the launch tube location using the original mounting brackets. Mounted the ammo can holder over the right rear fender. Installed a 'luggage rack support on the interior between the rear seats, and a gun safe between the front seats. Made some aluminum louver plates to cover some unwanted holes by making a wooden hammer form for use in the Pullax prior to making the louvers. Found it a little hard to drill the holes for mounting these plates. Got the deep water exhaust pipe 'guard' removed and straightened and mounted to the truck.
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Last edited by RockHillWill on Wed Jun 06, 2018 3:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
More pictures from above post.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
Added a 24v to 12v converter yesterday, and finally got the VIC3 intercom up and running. I found that I had an issue with the power box.
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- 86humv
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
That green box accessory output is wired for Harris radios.....and wires are pretty small.
86 Hmmwv
Lots A parts
M101A2 trailer
M1102 trailer
Lots A parts
M101A2 trailer
M1102 trailer
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
While a handy little control box to start with...IT IS NOT wired to standard VRC radio DC power pin-outs. Recently went over this with the great 86humv guy. There is also a 3/4 amp "polyfuse" wired to one of the connectors. Plan on a internal rewire and removal of polyfuse. It looks like a fat ceramic capacitor. Special application for Harris radios. CAMO
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026
Hey thanks guys. That explains a few things for me. Are you saying that I should just take out the' ceramic' polyfuse altogether and not replace it with anything else? This clears up why we had to rewire the first time. Thanks again!
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