A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

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kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:22 pm

As I am getting close to finishing the front end of the Glorifier, I decided to have a go at the front blackout marker lights.

One door had a large part broken off the lip, so I filled it with cheap epoxy glue using masking tape as a 'dam' of sorts . .

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and filed it back to a reasonable shape. . .

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cut some amber lens from an old trailer light . . .

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and glued it in place with JB Weld . . . .

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Here is the LED bulb I am trying out. It cost me $6. The base is BA15d, I believe. 15mm dia/parallel pins.

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The small pedestal that the bucket mounts on had broken into 4 pieces. These can be hard to get, I'm told, so I repaired it by gluing it together with JB weld and reinforcing with some copper wire inside it.

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I also carefully drilled a 4mm hole where the locating pin had been and glued a short length of steel wire into it so that the light won't want to turn when in place. The rear of one of the pedestals was bent upwards where it had been previously bolted down with the pin missing the hole in the fender. The material it is made of is a low grade aluminum alloy which is sometimes called s**t metal here, it seems to be a one bend material, as it always seems to break when attempts are made to straighten it. I believe that it cannot be welded/brazed/soldered, it just falls apart. Anyone know more than that?

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All finished. Note that I have again run an earth wire. I was able to squeeze the two wires into the mounting bolt by using smaller wires, which I can get away with as LEDs draw very little current, and it is 12v anyway, which draws less current than the original 6v.

Image


One more job done.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


Ian Fawbert
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Ian Fawbert » Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:58 pm

Hi Sam,

Re 'welding/brazing' pot metal, i think the guy who turns up at swapmeets selling those brazing rods to do aluminium cans (you know the bloke who punches holes in cans and then brazes it up with his magical material) says he can weld it.

From memory, dad bought some rods after watching him one day to try and do some vintage car door handles we have which are busted up in a similar way of bending to your base. He and now I have never used them, but it rings a bell (then again, lots of bells ring in my head sometimes!).

Great work as always and your continue to offer inspiration to more than just those doing a Diamond T. Thanks.


Ian.
Australian Jeep Investigator
MB: 131175
GPW: 11730.
GPW: 225290.
Aust trailer: GMH 3- #211
http://www.vintageengines.net

70th Division
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 70th Division » Tue Mar 06, 2018 5:23 pm

Hi Sam,

I like it !!!
Nice save of that cat's eye light, showing us great restoration methods that we can all take advantage of
when looking at parts that are damaged and likely to be discarded .
That JB Weld is good stuff and has lots of uses.


Best Regards,

Ray

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:12 am

Hi Ian,
It is a long time since I have seen that. I have a broken inner door handle that I was going to repair mechanically rather than welding it. I should take it to any show that I go to. Do you want to part with one of those rods? I'll give it a go sometime and report back. Flux?
Thanks for the encouragement, always appreciated.

Ray,
As I am a 'fix it' type of man and definitely not a 'throw it and replace it' type, fixing the stuff I have, even if replacements are available, is for me. I just can't throw out repairable 70 y.o. parts.

John G,
I had a good look at those holes in the inner guard. I must admit that I was a bit skeptical when you said they were for the brake hose springs. Then I found a TM picture with the inner guard removed and the spring just hanging from the hose. Then a closer look at the holes and I could a small wear mark that you'd expect to see from a single wire. So, as usual, you are 'right on the money'. Thanks. I have now fixed that little mystery.

Image


Some time back, I made a start on the passenger side inner guard (engine bay side panel). This is the last fluted panel to do. Thank (insert deity of choice here) for that! At first inspection, it seemed to be in much better condition than the drivers side one, but still took 2 days. It already had body filler on it, but the panel under the filler was a bit rough for me, so I ground it off and started again.

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Here is one of only 3 rust patches needed. Fortunately, the flutes needed very little rust repair . . . .

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. . . but, the alternator fan was touching the flutes. So, after much consideration of options, I opted to remove the offending flute . . .

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. . . and blank it off.

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I know that there were space issues in this corner of the engine bay with the original engine governor mechanism needing the be allowed for with modifications to the bonnet, inner guard and mudguard. These parts are different to the drivers side, beyond being a mirror image of them. Also, since then, I have discovered that I have another inner guard that is different again, and actually fits the mudguard better. I think it belongs to my 'Homebush' truck, so is not available to be used.

I often do these posts while having breakfast. I have finished breakfast now.

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Mar 12, 2018 12:50 pm

Hi everyone,

The passenger door handles had caused some work as I did not have a set. But I did have a spare damaged Drivers side set. So what is the difference? I'll explain.
The rear edge of the door is not vertical but the top leans rearward. The door catch mechanism is fitted in line with this edge, not vertical. So, for appearances, the outside handle is fitted to the 5/16" square shaft at an angle so that it will be horizontal at rest. Fair enough. But, the drivers door handle is the opposite angle to the passengers' door handle. The fact that the spare handle set I was going to use was rusted right through the square shaft made it an easier modification as I wasn't cutting up a good set of handles. Here is the picture of what I started with.

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The first problem was to get the inner handle off its' rusty shaft without damaging either any more as I wanted to use the threaded end of the shaft. It was stuck solid. Heat would quickly destroy the 'pot metal' handle, so I used hammering, rust penetrate, and sort of got the bolt to move a bit, but it broke off. At least I could now remove the handle from the shaft and use heat to get the remains of the bolt out.

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Using some 5/16"(8mm) key steel and quite some fiddling around, I welded it together. Despite my attempts to measure the angle needed, I failed several times, so just tacked it, fitted it, and bent it to suit.

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Another minor issue was the correct bolts to use, both on the outside escutcheon and the inner handle. They are #10 - 32 which is a 0.19" dia. bolt with 32 T.P.I., making it a UNF thread. But have a countersunk head, slightly domed (enough that a flat topped bolt is clearly not right!) and philips drive. While searching for some headlight parts (another story), I found some bolts with the correct head. Yeah! But when I got them home, they were M5 x 0.8 metric. Figures, they came of an old Mercedes truck. A closer look showed that 0.8 is almost exactly equal to 32 t.p.i., actually 31.75 t.p.i. That is close enough to take a #10 -32 die to 'massage' the thread to take the correct nuts. Yeah.
So I was able to fit the handles with the correct type of bolts. BTW, I could buy these bolts from McMaster-Carr, but that is slow as they won't ship O/S, I'm told.

So, all done and fitted.

Image

Image

One more job done.

Enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

Ian Fawbert
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Ian Fawbert » Tue Mar 13, 2018 2:17 am

Hi Ian,
It is a long time since I have seen that. I have a broken inner door handle that I was going to repair mechanically rather than welding it. I should take it to any show that I go to. Do you want to part with one of those rods? I'll give it a go sometime and report back. Flux?
Thanks for the encouragement, always appreciated.
Hi Sam,

Happy to send one or 2 up, i just don't know where they are! Dad passed away in 2012- he knows where they are!!! I am not sure which drawer they are located in the shed, or shelf, or even if we have them still... i will definitely look though and be in touch. Feel free to follow me up in a few weeks if you havent heard anything!

Always happy to hand out praise, especially if it is so well deserved as what you are doing.

Cheers,
Ian.
Australian Jeep Investigator
MB: 131175
GPW: 11730.
GPW: 225290.
Aust trailer: GMH 3- #211
http://www.vintageengines.net

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Mar 13, 2018 11:58 am

Righto Ian,
Thanks for that.

I've got a mate at Corowa right now who would have been able to bring them home for me.
But it doesn't matter, no hurry at all.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

Marty, SoCal
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Marty, SoCal » Thu Mar 15, 2018 11:52 am

Wow nice save on the BO lamp!

Maybe try doubling up the amber lens, or even a red one behind the amber one to get it more orange-y?
43 Ford GPW 92098
53 Dunbar Kapple M100
Sold: 61 CJ-5, 41 T207 WC-1 Dodge closed cab pickup
MVPA #8266
USMC Tanker (1811, 1812), 85-93
ASE Automotive Master tech, former Chrysler-Jeep Level 4 Mastertech, CA state EA smog license

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:09 pm

Hi Marty,

Nothing like working on a part to learn about it! :)
A mate of mine tells me that the BO light bases are not only being reproduced, but he has some NOS ones. So much for being hard to get!!! And he has a box of many BO lights that all need some repair of some sort. All good to know.

The jury is still 'out' on the colour of the lenses. I did try a double amber lens test, it made no difference that I could see. I have yet to play with red lenses, but that will come in the not-to-far-future when I wire up the tail/brake lights.

Also, I am going to chase coloured LEDs to see if there is a better answer there.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:44 pm

Here are a couple of pictures of work done a little while ago.

When fitting the finished drivers mudguard, the front bracket holes were a long way from aligning. After much investigation, I decided that it was going to need some heat, bend the bracket and stress the guard a bit. Here is the jigging up to control the bracket while hot. An engineering saying is "if you can't measure it, you can't control it, if you can't control it, you can't improve it", so here I have managed to have a way of using a square and tape to measure the change in shape.

Image


Even then, I had to bend the guard a bit using a ratchet strap. It caused a bit of a bend in the guard that I'll live with at the moment. Lesson learned = do all fitting/aligning/bending/etc prior the finishing the panel!!

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Before I fitted this guard, I wanted to finish the still-easy-to-get-to wiring on the firewall. One issue is the converting the lighting to include front park lights. I was going to use the B/O system, but the way the switch works makes it a complicated job. The issue is having the taillights operate at both the B/O setting AND the headlights setting on the main switch. If you just plug them in, the B/O switch position will cause a feed back all the way to the headlights! And the headlights switch position will cause a feedback to the front park lights, I don't want this to happen. So I plugged the front park lights (that are part of the headlight reflector) into the front B/O park system and fitted a small diode pack to the firewall junction block to stop the feedback to the headlights, and vise versa. (My head hurts!)
The picture below shows the diode pack and the final drawing I used to work out how to do it. (A diode is an electrical one-way valve.) The tail lights are easy as they are powered up in both the park and headlight positions.

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This picture is a general one of doing the wiring mentioned above.

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I have yet to test it, but I THINK I've worked it out. We'll see.


Have a nice day.
Sam
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

Marty, SoCal
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Marty, SoCal » Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:13 pm

You can get a high heat glass paint to color bulbs with, might work, if available in OZ, too.

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Bulb-Paint ... lb%20Paint

Image

MV Spares in OZ makes the repro marker lamps, Ron sells them!
43 Ford GPW 92098
53 Dunbar Kapple M100
Sold: 61 CJ-5, 41 T207 WC-1 Dodge closed cab pickup
MVPA #8266
USMC Tanker (1811, 1812), 85-93
ASE Automotive Master tech, former Chrysler-Jeep Level 4 Mastertech, CA state EA smog license

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:17 pm

Yes, I can get lens paint.
I'll be playing with it as part of getting the colours right.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Mar 22, 2018 12:26 pm

Hello everyone,

A while back, I was tiding up under-bonnet things and was not happy with the compressor coolant hose where it curved around behind the alternator, rubbing on a corner of it. So I found a piece of suitable steel pipe, size and shape - wise, and cut it to become a cradle of sorts to keep the hose out of harms way. For some reason, I don't have a 'finished' picture. I'll have to get that sometime. You can see the problem in pictures on the previous page (p.51) about 2/3 down the page.

Image


Amongst the other things I've been doing is the headlight repairs. They were worse than they looked (sometimes that is how things go!). This is what I started with, the original lights that were on the truck when I bought it 20 something years ago.

Image


Dis-assembled, cleaned . .

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To remove the mounting plate, I simply ground the "set" off the brass rivets. As I wish to use original style rivets, and I don't have any, I lengthened the original ones by brazing some length back on.

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Made decisions and started on the biggest problems first . . .

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. . . not the same patch, but you get the idea . . . I shaped the patches by hitting them on the rubber mat . . .

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. . . small magnets can be handy in a workshop . . .

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. . . MIG welded in place, then roughly shaped on the rubber mat . . .

Image


The jury is out on the MIG as I have started using the OAW again after hearing repeatedly that the true masters of this craft don't use MIG/TIG/MMAW, but OAW exclusively. Apparently, the OAW deposited metal is much softer than the MIG deposited metal, making it a lot easier to shape post-welding.

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Fri Mar 23, 2018 12:36 pm

Some more headlight repairs . . .

Image

Image


Making replacement patches for the front rim. This patch started as a straight strip and was bent with a hammer across the gap between the vise jaws, not too difficult being 1mm mild steel.

Image


The rim repairs are all brazed into place, works well.

Image


I started the rim repairs with the outer lip, then patched the rear lip. This was to help keep the shape for the 'dress rim' to clamp neatly into place. Seems to have worked.

Image


I used a combination of grinding and filing to remove the excess brass so that the 'dress rim' will lock securely into place.
A note of caution - non-ferrous metals should not be ground using a conventional grinding stone. This is because the metal clogs the grit in the stone, and if present in subsequent ferrous grinding, can expand with the heat and cause the stone to shatter. This could really wreck your day/week/month/year/decade/lifetime :? .

Image


Not wanting to change the outside appearance of the Glorifier, but still wanting upgraded lighting has caused some thinking and searching. I want to have parking lights and indicators, but don't want to add any lights. The obvious answer is to use a headlight lens/reflector that includes the park light as I have done on my GPW. Works well. I stumbled upon a used set with the wanted 100w QH high beam globes. Yeah!
But then I visited a Customs/Hot Rods swap meet only to find a pair of ditto lights that also included indicators, at a fraction of new price. Snapped them up! I had not seen the way they mounted the park light before, it piggy-backs on the QH bulb pre-focus plate!

Image

Image

Image


From the front . . .

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Also, the previous owner had modified the reflector to take a coloured indicator bulb! That was great as I had decided to convert the blackout marker lights to indicators, which has been done, but the angle of view of the marker lights is restricted to about 30 degrees outwards off the centre line of the truck because of the headlight brush guard. This was, to me, only just OK, not 100% happy with it. So, to find a way to add indicators to the headlight reflector is a good answer to my needs! Since then, I have also found that hot rodders use headlights with built-in LED indicators! Handy to know.

Image


So, I set about making the custom wiring harness that goes from the headlight to the chassis harness. Hmmm, next problem was to fit 5 wires (High/Low/Indicator/Park/Earth) through the holes designed for two wires (High/Low). In the picture below is the wiring before fitting the loom. The loom was the problem, of the cotton loom I have, one size would not take all the wires, but the next size would not fit through the hole in the bucket. I played with the idea of enlarging the hole in the bucket but wasn't too keen on that. The answer was to use split plastic loom and collapse it somewhat onto the wires using cotton tape wrapped tightly around it. Seems to have worked.

Image


Getting there.
Enjoy!
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Mar 24, 2018 12:48 pm

Way back on p.46, I had done a heap of work on the passenger side mudguard. I had hit a wall, somewhat, as the large patch on the top had stubbornly refused to straighten out smoothly. A skilled panel restorer once told me that, sometimes, the distortion can be beyond redemption. This was the impasse I had reached.
I cut the offending section out and left the guard for about a year!!!!

But I have returned to it now. This is where I was up to.

Image


So I cut a new patch, this time using rounded corners which simplified the welding . . .

Image


. . . and MIG welded it in place. Now it had developed a twist in the top! :?

Image


Again, I left it for a while before attacking the twist. This guard was proving to be a very un-co-operative beast. Anyway, I wasn't big/strong enough to straighten it by hand, so a couple of large timbers fixed that.

Image


Other problems not yet dealt with was the outer edge (of course), wow, this guard has had a hard life! I sort of expect the passenger guard to be the worst one as it is less visible to the driver.

Image


Here, I have bent the wire out of the way, repaired the guard edge, re-shaped the wire and welded it back in place.

Image


Except it was well out of place. The liquid paper line shows where the edge should be. It was surprisingly co-operative with H&H (heat & hammer), I expected to have to fight it to stretch the wire. But no.

Image


The rear lower edge also had been knocked around.

Image


Although it is a bit of work, I need to move the wire out of the way first, repair the sheetmetal, re-position the wire, weld it, then form the edge around it. Worked fine. I didn't actually patch this, just welded it up, this time using OAW (Oxy-Acetelyene Welding).

Image


The guard is now test fitted and I am getting closer to finishing it. Still a lot of work to do on it.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


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