A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

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fowler8669
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by fowler8669 » Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:44 am

Hi Sam

lovely work as always, have to admit if i were that close to having the truck finished i would probably rush to get it on the road and drive it :wink:

so got to admire your eye for detail.

regards Sam (UK)


kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Nov 25, 2017 12:28 pm

Hi All,

It has been 3 months since I have posted here.
Work/life/other pursuits have been taking my time/energy such that my hopes to have the guards/fenders bonnet/hoods done by new year are a distant hope now.
There will be quite a bit of delicate welding to do just above the bonnet flutes on both bonnets, that will be a challenge. And I still have one mudguard to finish.

Then the lights. Then the cranes. Then . . . . playtime!!

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Nov 28, 2017 11:16 am

Hi all,

Here are some pictures that I intended to post a long time ago.

As I am using 12 volts instead of the original 6 volts, I had to 'ballast' (I think that is the correct word) the fuel gauge. So here is how it looks.

Image

Image

Back on page 35, I showed the resistors, but didn't post these pictures, it seems.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Nov 28, 2017 11:36 am

After I had fitted the cabin to the chassis, I had trouble getting the shift levers escutcheon to fit, so I made several changes, both removing . . .

Image


. . . and adding the get a neater fit.

Image

Sam.

P.S. I have added to the contents list in the first post.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Dec 04, 2017 1:09 pm

After several months, I managed a day on the Glorifier. I decided to have a go at the fluted panel for the drivers side bonnet (hood). I was not looking forward to this as I thought that it would be a slow job that could easily go very wrong (in terms of distortion) if I wasn't careful, it is very visible on the finished truck.
I had already cut off the top rusty strip, but when checking, the cut was not straight ?!?!
So, I clamped a 600mm rule onto it, re-marked it, and then ground it straight.

Image


So it was like this . . .

Image


After some other preparations, I noticed that the cut edge that I had carefully straightened a few hours before, was now not straight!?!? Wha. . what? On careful inspection, I noticed that the narrow section below the flutes was all that was holding the panel in shape. Opps! So, I straighten it again by hitting it on the bench in different ways, then tack welded a brace in place.That's better!

Image

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Dec 04, 2017 1:37 pm

Then, I started to tack weld the replacement rebated strip into place . .

Image


But I noticed distortion creeping in. A careful think about it . . and I realized that the weld was pulling as it shrunk on cooling and because the strip is rebated, It caused the bend to develop. You can sort of see it in the picture below.

Image


So it needed to be stretched, which was a simple matter of hitting the weld to flatten it out a bit, causing it to stretch, just like squashing a ball of play-dough!!! I used a convenient small ball pein hammer, but professionals have "stretching hammers" that are pointed or have a hatch-like pattern on the face.

Image


So, bit by bit, I welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/(see picture below)welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/welded/ground/shaped/. . . . . . . . :wink:


No, it wasn't that bad. It did get there. In one day. This picture is part way through (see above!)

Image


One thing that needed attention was that several flutes distorted on the cut end. I don't know why. It was a simple flattening a bit with a hammer to get them back into shape for welding.

Image


Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

armyjeep52
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by armyjeep52 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 4:05 pm

Well done Sam, I am enjoying the restoration. You should get a good run at it over the holidays.
Ken
1944 GPW188466 ARN 142831 WW2 Salvation Army
1945 Studebaker
1942 GMC CCW353 6x4 RAAF
1945 Diamond T 969A
1942 Mack NM6

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Jan 04, 2018 11:42 am

Hello ladies and gentlemen,

Amongst other things, I have managed some more workshop time on the Glorifier.

Toward the rear of the fluted panel of the bonnets (hoods) is a vertical reinforcement strip that was obviously originally fitted as untreated plain steel. Hence a buildup of corrosion underneath it, which has 'pulled' the spot welds a bit. I decided to leave the now obvious spot weld indentations as a patina, of sorts. But the upper few spot welds had let go and needed repair. I cleaned underneath as much as I easily could first.

Image


Drilled out the old spot welds.

Image


And filled with the MIG (Metal Inert Gas) as usual.

Image


Now, back to the flutes.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:58 pm

Well, not yet.

The main brace that supports the bonnet is spot welded to the lower edge of the fluted panel and the inner edge of the top panel where it attaches to the hinge, and strangely, nowhere in between. This brace is where the bonnet support arm connects to hold the bonnet in the open position. As usual, they had been originally assembled as bare metal parts and so there was some corrosion to be dealt with.

So, I found the 5 spot welds (sanding/light grinding), centre punched them, pilot drilled them, paying close attention to the depth so as to not drill all the way through, and the slightest hint of rust dust in the swarf (swarf = the steel drilled/machined off a job. Respect this stuff as in can be very sharp or hot!!). Then chose a 1/4" (6mm) drill bit to drill out the rest of each spot weld. Rust dust is a good indicator that it is time to stop drilling as it shows that we have reached the rusty bottom of the first plate.

Image

Cut out the rusty sections and fitted new steel. Unusually, the fluted panel is only 1mm (0.040"/25g?), which made it a bit more difficult to weld.

Image

Image


While I had the welder out, I filled few rust holes that were too big for epoxy but too small for a patch. The all-important copper backing block can be seen clamped in place. This stops the weld metal collapsing through the panel and also acts as a heat sink, reducing the chance of heat distortion. The weld won't stick to the copper at all.

Image


I spent a LOT of time on the ends of the flutes adjacent the welds, getting them to look unmolested. Only a very small mis-shape here will probably be very visible on the finished panel. I used a hacksaw blade or half round file to clean out the inside corners . . .

Image

Image


. . . and epoxy (JB Weld) to build up small sections to file and sand later. The small piece of masking tape gives a platform for the epoxy and the epoxy won't stick to the adhesive side of it. Works well, sometimes I even lose track of which flutes have been repaired and which have not needed to be!

Image


All these places were ground/filed/flapper disked/fan grinder-ed(?)/sanded/ . . . and then bogged up for more sanding. Did I tell you how much I love sanding? It wouldn't take long! :lol:

Image


This is what I call a fan grinder. I love it for light work, leaves a very smooth finish, but is a small tool. The picture shows my experiment with using epoxy as a filler where I suspect that the welds may not have properly joined through the panel and so bog may be open to the moisture from the reverse side, when I don't want to reweld it for some reason (heat problems/laziness/time/convenience).

Image


(I am well aware that many of you are more skilled/experienced than I, others similar, some less so. The detailed explanations are not expected to be for all readers, but many will find them interesting or helpful. Indeed, I have been helped by others' posts here. Sorry if this makes my posts a bit long-winded for some.)


Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

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40 Chevy
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 40 Chevy » Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:58 am

Sam,

Happy New Year, no need for you to start posting disclaimers in your posts!!


John G
1940 G4112
1942 G509 969A
1942 G116 series 2
1944 G116 series 5
1942 Sterling HC 165 tractor
1944 Autocar U7144T

70th Division
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 70th Division » Fri Jan 05, 2018 6:03 am

Hello Sam,

What a beautiful job you are doing on your truck !!!
Thanks for the highly educational, informative, and very well laid out descriptions of your work.
You really show how things should be done, and then have done it :D :D :D :D

Your example will help us all, on our projects, with methods and ideas to tackle repairs and restore damaged areas !!!!


Thanks so much, keep up your good works !!
Looking forward to more updates !!
Happy New Year !!!


Ray
USA

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:32 pm

Hi John,
I hope all is well for you and yours. I saw you in some youtube videos in England, I think you still have that smile on your face! I guess you are right.

Hi Ray,
Thanks for the kind words. They are very encouraging and appreciated. I have learned both by trial and error, and by causal comment/instruction from those more capable than I. It is a real boost to me to see what can be achieved (by others) and so go ahead myself with the all-important confidence knowing that I am heading in the right direction.

Someday, in the distant future, I may head overseas to meet some of you and compare notes 'on the ground'.

As usual, I have several parts on the go at once. The drivers side fluted panel has been finished (I think) . . .

Image


. . . and I made some adjustments to the passenger side bonnet top. As previously mentioned, the top was marked out for cutting using tape measure/square, which gave an error such that the outer edge that attaches to the fluted panel was about 1/4" too far rearward. so some was cut off the rear edge, but welded onto the front edge. To help control heat, I welded on a wider piece, then ground it back to the right size.

Image

Image


The bonnet tops have been abrasive cleaned of surface rust . . . .

Image


. . . treated with Phosphoric acid (to kill any remaining rust) and primed.

Image


Also, the bonnet hinge has had some time spent on it. Bodywork-wise, these hinges seem to be one of the first parts to fail and need replacing. Most unrestored DTs I've seen have had butt hinges welded/brazed on! Ouch! :(
Through a local vintage car parts supplier, who is a Chev specialist, I have managed to buy a pair of suitable hinges, ex-USA, that are made for the single-hinged bonnets of the 1930's Chevs. They seem to be exactly the right size but have large mounting holes punched into the mounting flanges. I'll have to put up with that. My attempts to make the hinges were a complete failure. Anyway, this is the profile . . .

Image


. . . . and after trimming a bit to a good length, I cut and modified the ends as per the original on the 'Homebush' truck. This will stop the hinge from wandering forward or rearward. I just cut the inner about 3/8" short, added a slot in the outer, and collapsed it a bit with a cold chisel in the vise.

Image


Next was to have a good look at how to attach the hinges. They seem to have been spot welded originally. Good grief! Has anyone here wrestled with removing or re-fitting the two bonnets + center strip as one piece? I shudder at the thought. After some contemplation and investigation, I am leaning toward solid riveting the hinge to the center strip, but bolting it to the bonnet. I did this on the battery box door, it looks fine and works well.
The picture below is of the original bonnet hinge-mounting flange, showing failed spot welds and giving me an original spacing. By using 93mm spacing, there will be 9 rivets/bolts on each flange and can avoid the existing punched holes. I think that will work well.

Image

All that was yesterday, so I am certainly back-on-deck!

I wish you a prosperous and memorable 2018.

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:47 pm

Hi all,
So, after some procrastination, I had a go at riveting the hinge to the center strip. Firstly, I positioned the hinge on the center strip, clamped it in place, marked out the 9 holes and drilled one. Deburred the hole and set the rivet in place. Then drilled a hole in the other end, deburred and set the rivet. All good.
It is important to fit a couple of rivets before drilling the rest of the holes, otherwise, for sure, something will not align properly!

Image

Image

Image

Image


I used a standard Tinmans rivet, once very common, but hard to get nowadays. I just had some on hand. It is important when setting the rivet to not reduce its' height too much as, when the end becomes thinner, it starts to lose its' strength. Since I don't have a doming tool, the rivets will not be properly finished. Please forgive me. :wink:

Image


Whilst cleaning the fluted panels, I noticed this mark adjacent the lock-down handle hole. It looks like an error at the stamping machine during manufacture. A bit hard to see, but any ideas?

Image

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 2:17 am

Another job that needed doing was the repair of the drag link. This is the arm that is joined at the rear end by a ball joint to the Pitman Arm off the steering box, and at the front end by an identical ball joint to the steering arm that bolts to the CV housing on the front axle.

Well, they are almost identical. :?

Only after driving the Glorifier a bit did I realize the the rear end of the Pitman Arm was hitting the rear mudguard bracket on a full right turn. Closer inspection showed that I had assembled it reverse to how is correct.

The arm has a 'short' end, where the centre line of the ball joint is closer to the end of the Pitman Arm, . . . .

Image


. . . and a 'long' end, where the centre of the ball joint is much further from its' end.

Image


So, all I had to do was flip it end-to-end and reassemble. Of course, there were a couple of other things to do while I was on that job, viz. repair the failing paint and replace the rubber 'gaskets' which I had made from non-grease resistant sheet, (probably neo-prene) with nitrile sheet which is petroleum resistant. As this stuff is also very stretchable (500%!), I could cut it to stretch over the ball and still seal against the shaft of the ball. So, I measured the shaft . . .

Image


. . . and cut the gaskets to suit.

Image


And, . . . wolha!!!

Image


Re-assembled using my not-quite-big-enough DL (Drag Link) driver. The threaded plug puts a pre-load on the spring that holds the cups hard against the ball. Sometimes, excess movement in the drag link joints can be remedied by tightening these threaded plugs. Dunno their correct name. (Anyone got a large DL driver to spare?) And locked it in place with a 1/4" cotter pin. In my limited experience, I have yet to see any real wear in a Drag Link joint on a 969/972, they all seem to not wear at all.

Image

Then laced it up with shoe laces. Works well. This gasket is my idea and the canvas covers are a copy of what I suspect is an Australian Army modification. The parts manual shows nothing to keep dirt out of the ball joints. :?

Image

Image


One more job done.
Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

motto
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by motto » Mon Jan 15, 2018 12:38 pm

Hi Sam
The reason for the ball location being different distances from each end of the drag link is to allow spring action in both directions i.e. tension and compression. It does seem a little counter intuitive but makes sense when think about it and is a common feature on drag links of this era.

Dave


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