A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

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kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Mar 24, 2018 1:09 pm

A couple of random pictures . . .

This is the side of the box for the headlight lense/reflector with built-in LED indicator, FYI.

Image


This is what I call 'cloudy sky' bog and is about the limit of my skills/tools/patience. The bog (body filler) would not be much more than 1mm (0.040") thick maximum. I suspect that if I clamped a flat panel, like this, between two flat heavy plates and applied 50 - 80 tons pressure, it would come out dead flat. But I haven't tried that.

Image


One of the issues with the passenger guard was that the outer part of the seam was stretched somehow. Much hammer-work made no difference, so I had a go at it using the shrinking habit of weld deposit to pull it into place. This worked better than I expected. The small brass bolts that can be seen were tightly done up to force the seam together. After the welding, they had become quite loose.

Image

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun Apr 01, 2018 1:42 pm

Continuing . . . . .

I suspect that one reason I am having so much trouble is that this guard had some work done on it by a panel beater, who had taken the outer section from another guard and welded it to this guard, but neither had the truck to check the fit on, nor actually finished the job. I had run out of money, so brought my panels home, somewhat shocked by how the money did not go very far. That was when I had a go at the cabin myself, around the time I started this thread.

Again disillusioned, I turned back to the headlights, this time attacking the 'dress rim'. I'm told these are hard to get if you are missing one.
The main job is the clamping fittings. They are very rusty.

Image


The rivets were easily to grind off and punch out. The threaded bracket is surprisingly thick, which also caused problems with the limited space inside the rim when assembled.

Image


The little recess that the bolt head sits in was just brazed up. Where the rivet goes on the other recess for the second light was so rusty that I brazed a small flat washer over it to give the strength needed for it to hold on the rivet. The picture shows bifurcated rivets, but I went with stronger tinmans rivets because I have some.

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All done and fitted . . . .

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. . . and with the indicator working. Yes, this picture took a few attempts to capture exactly as the indicators were lit!!

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He! He! The other side will be way easier now that I know how to do it.

BTW, I was talking to some Hod Rod people about the yellow coloured indicators. They told me that it does not seem to be a problem to the transport department, so I may end up just going with what I've got. We'll see.

Hope you had a Happy Easter.

Enjoy.
Sam
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Apr 04, 2018 2:00 pm

I decided to finish the mudguard "scuff plates", the TM calls them.

They were around 14g/2mm, I had easy access to 2.5mm, so I used that. Cut to 9" x 20", rounded the corners, marked out and drilled the holes, welded up 2 holes and drilled them in the right place (You'd think I could read a rule!! :roll: The measurement was 248mm, I saw the 240, but used the 8 adjacent it instead of the 8 near the 250 mark. What was I thinking. :roll: ).

Image


Then a bit of back and forth getting the bend close enough so as to not stress the guard much and match the heavier reinforcing angle strips underneath when bolted down . . . .

Image


. . . . until I found a fit I was happy with.

Image


The drivers guard was marked out, masked off and I applied Tectyl as a rust preventative. I used to use this stuff in a car dealership when doing rustproofing.

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Then I read the directions, which said not to use on painted surfaces! I'm going to leave it and see what happens. On the underside of the scuff plate, I used a local product, Lubex which dries (very slowly) to a wax like coating.

Image


Rainy weather and family demands are slowing the work at the moment.

Have a nice day.
Sam.
Last edited by kw573 on Thu Apr 19, 2018 10:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

Pat Gray
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Pat Gray » Thu Apr 05, 2018 9:43 am

Looks Great!!
Keep up the Fantastic Work!!!

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Apr 05, 2018 3:19 pm

Hi Pat,
Thanks for that. As I am slowly approaching the completion of this build (still got the cranes to do), I am becoming a bit impatient, keep pushing the expected road-ready date back and back. Hmmm . . .

The mis-alignment of the passenger guard was significant. Maybe I've got some brackets mixed up or things were highly stressed and I didn't notice when I dis-assembled it 10 years ago. Dunno. But this was the upper rear bracket . . .

Image


. . . and this was the rear lower bracket.

Image



No, I couldn't just lift the guard as it was held there by the other brackets, and was more-or-less in the right alignment with the side step/battery box. So, after some consideration of options, I reluctantly . . . .

Image

Image


This greatly improved the general fit. Then, one evening, while thinking of what to do next day, I decided to have a go at fully bolting up the guard. Next day, I spent a couple of hours mucking around trying to get everything to line up properly. Eventually I got it to behave, and reduced the tendency of it to hang downward to be barely noticeable. The headlight bracket was noticeably out of level. It was massaged a bit, getting the mounting surfaces to fit the curve of the guard, but I had to elongate several holes to get it to sit level, more-or-less. And fix some other damage.

Image


But now it is done. I'll be having a closer look at other trucks when I get the chance. Are they all a bit out of level?

Image


BTW, here is the join of the chassis harness to the lights harness under the headlights. Strangely, the original chassis harness is terminated with ring-type connectors, but there is no terminal block to attach them to. Period pictures show a large wrapping of loom over it all. So, I opted for bullet connectors. Much more appropriate for this type of arrangement. This is the only modification I have made thus far to this 1952 manufacture chassis harness.

Image


I have now removed the passenger guard and am in the panelbeating/filling/painting mode for the next few days. Hopefully.

Have a nice day.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Apr 07, 2018 12:32 pm

Hello everyone,

I continue to be surprised at the number of views this thread gets. Obviously, there are many people who look (and hopefully enjoy) but never have the need to post. To you, I say, thanks for the subtle support and I hope it is as helpful for you as the views count suggests. I am interested in which countries some of you are from.

Anyway, onto more relevant stuff.
I am nearing the end of the sheetmetal work, and I thank my God for that! It is becoming very tiresome. Anyway, I will sometimes do something else just to break the routine. I have turned my attention to the front winch chain. Many years ago, I did a trip to the Philippines with a mate chasing MV parts (of course! What else would I go to the Philippines for??) and brought home an NOS 5/8" winch chain/hook. It is on the Kenworth M1A1 now. As the M1A1 and 969 have basically the same front winch, I used the NOS chain as a guide to make one for the Glorifier. Ross had a NOS hook which is probably correct, by checking period pictures. But the pear links were a problem. I started by modifying 3/4" 'head' rings to the shape of the NOS chain. This was hard and hot work. But then I found pear links that are designed with a clevis and pin for attachment to a chain. And cheap. So, I cut the clevis off, cut the link open at a long angle and heat to open it so I can fit it to a chain/hook/etc.

Image


Yes, I know, the heating and welding will weaken the link. The long angled cut is to give more weld to close the link = more strength. Anyway, I'm happy with it. Here is the NOS hook joined to the chain . . . .

Image


. . . . and the other end which will be joined to the winch cable.

Image


To clean the chain for painting, I'll try an acid bath. Yes, I know, the paint will probably not last very long, I figure damaged paint will look a lot more authentic than no paint.

The Mudguard is sooo close to finished it's annoying. This picture shows the underside finished painting. A bit hard to see.

Image


I have since put a double coat of colour on the outside but am not happy with it. I didn't take enough care, cutting corners and getting impatient, there are a lot of heavy sanding marks that are going to need some spray putty. So I am not as close to finished as I thought. Bugger! :?

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

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gerrykan
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by gerrykan » Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:30 am

kw573 wrote:
Sat Apr 07, 2018 12:32 pm
I continue to be surprised at the number of views this thread gets. Obviously, there are many people who look (and hopefully enjoy) but never have the need to post. To you, I say, thanks for the subtle support and I hope it is as helpful for you as the views count suggests. I am interested in which countries some of you are from.
Sam,
This is my favorite thread to follow on the G503.
I appreciate not only your fabricating skills, but also spending the time to take great pictures and post them along with your narrative of the restoration progress.

I try to avoid replying here, so as not to clutter your excellent thread with needless posts.
I'm guessing there are others that feel the same.

So from near the center of the USA, keep up the good work!

Best regards, Roy
Roy

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Apr 19, 2018 10:49 pm

Hi all,

I attacked the blackout headlight bucket. Again it was rusty, but I would prefer to have a repaired original than a reproduction item.

Patched the holes . . . .

Image


. . . . made replacement sections for the rim out of 1mm (0.040") MS sheet . . . .

Image


. . . a job made much easier by having the right sized former to shape the metal on . . .

Image


. . . and brazed them on, which worked very well.

Image


I kept chasing pin holes, but got them all. To not overlook them, I'd open them up with a scriber so they are easy to see and the extent of the thin metal becomes clear.

Image


It is all finished and mounted now. Pictures to come.

And some random pictures . . .
The passenger side mudguard at the spray putty stage. Getting that outside edge presentable took a lot of work, approaching my limit of skill. Under the spray putty is a total layer of body filler, though very thin mostly.

Image


And the front of truck about 2 weeks ago. Really looks like a truck now. Do you think I am glad to be finished the panel work? . . . . just a little bit, . . maybe :D :D

Image


One of the scuff plates finished and fitted.

Image


Working on rear light modifications and horns this week.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Apr 21, 2018 1:47 am

Hi all,
A few more pictures of what I have been achieving.

The blackout headlight has now been finished and fitted. I fitted a conventional 4 1/2" driving light with a 55w H1 QH bulb, not that I'm going to need it with two 100W QH headlights and max speed of around 40mph!!

Image


Fortunately, one of the trucks I bought had an original bracket for the blackout headlight, which, I told, can be a bit hard to find. So I had a couple cast in brass. Now, is this one the original or a brass one? What do you think?

Image


As I had a bulb that the hood had broken off, I decided to glue it onto the driving light just for looks. Gotta love JBweld!!

Image


I'm happy.


Next was the steering wheel nut.
This was strange, as things were different to what was expected. The TM lists an 1" - 20 nut. That is not standard. An 1" UNF is 14t.p.i. and even UNS (special) was not 20t.p.i. But wait, . . . . good grief, the thread on the steering column is 18t.p.i.!?! Neither UNF, UNS, or TM spec. Where did that come from? It can only be a 972 or 969 steering box, nothing else. Unless . . .when I made the thread repair inserts, I made one 18t.p.i.? But this doesn't look like an insert (or I did a very neat job). As my usual odd-parts man did not have anything in 1", I was going to have to make one. A 1960s international truck yielded a 7/8" nut with 1 1/4"AF, plenty of metal to take a 1" thread. Hmmm, it is a very long time since I've machined a thread, let alone an internal thread. After some swapping of gears, I had the lathe cutting at 18t.p.i., then ground up a 55deg tip to go in the boring bar (which is far from boring!) and was running out of avoidance strategies, it was time to cut the thread. Hmmm, it didn't work, the root diameter, according to the book was 0.907", way too small. So I did my own measuring and came up with 0.940", . . . .

Image


. . . . which worked.

Image


All done and fitted and I still don't know where the 18t.p.i. came from. :roll:

This then allowed the horn button and its' mechanism to be fitted. I have managed to find a reasonable RVB low tone horn which mounts on the passenger side of the firewall. RVB is an Australian made look-a-like (sort of) horn which many trucks have, probably fitted by the Australian military when the original Autolite horns failed. The high tone RVB horn I have is resisting attempts to bring it back to good health, it squeaks and squawks and vibrates, but I have yet to get a nice clean note out of it. And the bell is broken. It may have to do until I find better options. Pictures to come.

Working on the rear lights today.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Apr 21, 2018 1:35 pm

Some more pictures.

The mounting plate for the headlight ready to be riveted to the bucket. This was a few weeks ago. On the first light, I riveted this on without putting the bolt in first. Bugger!! :roll:

Image


The steering wheel and horn button are done. For now. I'd really like to find the horn button shown in the TM for open cab trucks, that has the "T in an embossed diamond" logo formed onto it. Not the metal medallion type. I certainly can not justify buying a US$200 one (or whatever they may be worth). Anybody know where I might buy one?

Image


The wiring under the headlights seems a bit ad hoc, so I made some clips to hold it all secure. When I feel that the wiring there is secure, ie., is working properly, I'll wrap it in a canvas strip as its' loom.

Image

Image


Finished and fitted.

Image


I discovered another "Bugger"! I was getting ready to do an initial headlight aiming, only to find that I have overlooked the access hole in the passenger mudguard! :oops: There is another hours' work + paint drying time.

Image


But it is exciting times, I'll be going for a test drive with all the front panels, etc. in place soon.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun Apr 22, 2018 1:22 pm

Hi all,

I had finished painting the front winch chain, so it was time to fit it.
Which meant fitting the 'splice eliminator'. I have played with these things a bit in the past and learned that they are made for six strand 'right hand ordinary lay' cable, nothing else. I once tried to fit one to an 8 strand cable, didn't work. The two halves are shaped to take a right hand laid 6 strand cable that has the wires laid left handed within the strand. If the wires were laid right handed, it is called a 'langs lay' cable. The book tells me they have slightly different behavior characteristics.

Anyway, the fight I had was forcing the 5/8" cable around the correct sized thimble. I had to take it a bit at a time.
First job was to cut off the eye splice that had been done using the short-cut method.

Image


Then whip the end so that it would not unravel as it is forced into a tight bend. The lay of the strands and wires is clearly visible in these pictures.

Image

Image


Using various G clamps and vise grips, I worked the cable around the thimble bit by bit, a real fight it was. It wanted to slide up the thimble leaving a gap between the cable and the thimble at the curved end.

Image


Not forgetting to fit the nuts over the cable first, I could sort of line things up a bit and clamp the halves in close to the right place, then slide them toward the thimble with an F.B.H. (fairly big hammer), engage the nut without cross threading it, turn it a bit, hit the halves along a bit, tighten the nut (which moves it away from the timble a bit), hit the halves along a bit, etc, until I got it close enough to be happy with it. This also had to be a position where the strands laid in the seats it the proper position. All the time, I'm remembering that I intend to use this to its' full capacity. If I clamped it too tight, I couldn't get the seats to move, if too loose, they wouldn't stay in place.

Image


When happy with it, I cut the excess off. I wish I'd left a little tail now, maybe 1/2".

Image

Image


. . . . and fitted the second nut.

Image


The next question was how tight to do it up. Using the size of the nuts as a guide, I figured I could put a good amount of torque on them. I lightly greased the threads, didn't want the grease to get onto the seats. There was a bit of back-and-forth as I tightened them evenly.

Image


When I achieved the amount of crush seen in the picture below, I was happy. The black circle indicates a strand, the red lines show the shape of the seat to take the strands, and the green arrow shows the fibre core. A cable with a steel core is stronger, but a lot stiffer. A cable with a natural fiber core is less strong, but is easier to handle. The fibre also acts as a lubricant reservoir.

Image


All done. Finished picture to come.

Now, back to the lights.

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

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40 Chevy
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 40 Chevy » Mon Apr 23, 2018 3:42 am

Sam;
Now that is a F.B.W. (wrench) you used!!

John G
1940 G4112
1942 G509 969A
1942 G116 series 2
1944 G116 series 5
1942 Sterling HC 165 tractor
1944 Autocar U7144T

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Apr 24, 2018 2:23 pm

John, you bet!

Here is the chain fitted, dunno the original length, just copied a NOS one I had that maybe from 1960s. If the chain is a bit long, it won't stow tidily around the tow hooks. If it is a bit short, it is not as usable on larger anchors, etc.
I have noticed a correlation between the size of the winch cable diameter and the chain material diameter, they are the same.

Image

Image


I have one horn fitted and working. My vast experience in tuning horns (about 5 minutes) has taught me that the horn can make a different noise when held in a vise or by hand (and that it gets hot!! :o ). So it needs to be fine tuned when bolted in place. Also, as they are pretty much a dead short, heavy wires and a good battery needs to be used to get a reasonable tone, otherwise it'll just squawk and make you think there is something wrong with it. It's just not enough power supply. I'll describe this process later.
I'm fine tuning the horn in the picture below.

Image


This is the RVB horn mentioned earlier. Obvious difference to an Auto-lite is the shape of the cover, the Auto-lite being semi-spherical according to the parts book. They work the same and are almost identical in size. It was entirely overlooked at the time, but the horn is a very tidy (snug?) fit under the bonnet. I'm happy.

Image


More to come.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Apr 24, 2018 3:16 pm

And here is stuff about the inside of the horn. I have period typical horns made by Auto-lite(USA), RVB(Aust.) and Lucas(English). They all work the same though differ in their design, some a little, some a lot, even within the same manufacturer.

Anyway, here is the naked RVB.

Image


And how it works, is your brain in gear? Get ready! See the picture below.

Noise is air that is vibrating (you should have learned that in middle/secondary school), so the horn is an air vibrating device.

The brown arrow shows the edge of the thin sheet diaphragm that moves up and down very fast to vibrate the air.
It is attached in the middle to a bolt that goes up and out the top, see green arrow.
On this bolt is also a large steel plate (yellow arrow) that is pulled down by the electro-magnetic coil (black arrow).
The power travels into the horn at the blue arrow, up to the flexible arm (red arrow) and through the points (white arrow) and back down to the coil, then to earth.

When the horn button is pushed, the coil get powered up, that turns it into a magnet (refer to middle/secondary school science) and pulls the steel plate down. At the purple arrow is an adjustable nut that pulls the flexible arm down when the coil is energized.This opens the points (white arrow) which disconnects the power from the coil and allows the return spring (thin plate below green arrow) and the flexible arm to pull the bolt back upward which pulls the diaphragm back up. This closes the points, the coil gets power again and it all starts again. Very fast.

At the blue arrow is a ballast (?) resistor, a coil wrapped onto the (mica?) plate, a bypass to earth. This has something to do with the operation of the horn that I don't understand. Bit like a condenser in a distributor I guess. Can anyone enlighten us? Anyway, it gets hot, very hot with repeated use like, say, when you are testing the horn in your hand. :?

Image


Adjusting the horn requires moving the adjuster nut (purple arrow) very slightly down until the horn stops working, then back upward, fractions of a turn at a time and nipping up the lock nut each time, until the horn gives a clean tone you are happy with. Then firm up the lock nut without turning the adjuster nut at all. That is how I did it anyway.

And that is how most or all electro-magnetic horns work.
Do you need a sit down and a cup of tea? I do.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

70th Division
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 70th Division » Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:27 pm

Hello Sam,

A wonderful progress report on your Diamond T !!!!!
You are creating a total Masterpiece with all your skilled and hard work :D :D :D .
You have a very enjoyable and informative thread , that I am sure all greatly admire !!

I am located in Florida, USA.

Keep up your good works, the truck looks beautiful with its front clip installed :D :D :D

Looks about road ready !!
Maybe you should hook up some speakers and play "Space Trucking" from Deep Purple once you get under way below the sunny
Australian skies !!!


Best Regards,

Ray


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